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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
ChatGPT, which I really don't trust for this type of stuff is telling me the offset of your pulley won't work on the dyna... Bummer but thanks for looking !
Well **** - happened to me. I've probably put 300 miles on it since pulling out of hibernation and will admit, hadn't put a wrench on them since taking it back out. That hardware had been installed for at least 10K miles, I checked it maybe every couple of weeks all last season - always tight. But today, when I'm a mile from my house after 50 mile ride, heard and felt a couple clicks from the rear as I was getting ready to hang a right and the rear locked up. All in all, lucky it happened when and where it did, I was probably only doing 20-25MPH. I think I'm going to go to stock hardware and safety wire them. New wheel, from late model FXDL and pulley going to cost me about $1K from Harley unless any of you bros have some parts you want to sell me.
ChatGPT, which I really don't trust for this type of stuff is telling me the offset of your pulley won't work on the dyna... Bummer but thanks for looking !
I have a the proper spacer from Vulcan Engineering.. I ran that pulley with the spacer on my 2013 Dyna 120/125 horse.. Never an issue, but that's because I use the factory bolts with the large washers and red Loctite.. That large washer is what gives you the clamping load necessary to keep anything from loosening up once properly torqued with red Loctite.. Using an ARP bolt without the washers is not smart.. With this setup you can still use the OEM bolts and washers.. I do a 2 step torque sequence.. First round 40 ft lbs in a star pattern the final of 80 ft lbs.. Never once had an issue but I do check on occasion..
I have a the proper spacer from Vulcan Engineering.. I ran that pulley with the spacer on my 2013 Dyna 120/125 horse.. Never an issue, but that's because I use the factory bolts with the large washers and red Loctite.. That large washer is what gives you the clamping load necessary to keep anything from loosening up once properly torqued with red Loctite.. Using an ARP bolt without the washers is not smart.. With this setup you can still use the OEM bolts and washers.. I do a 2 step torque sequence.. First round 40 ft lbs in a star pattern the final of 80 ft lbs.. Never once had an issue but I do check on occasion..
I know you would know... thanks..
I do know our bar high quality and I'm not going to dispute that something's I just like sticking with OEM. That's all
That's sweet you have the spacer, I'd be good with going up a couple teeth and as I mentioned above, I'm going back to OEM hardware and will likely drill and safety wire them - not going to bank on getting so lucky twice, its a high consequence failure.
Let me know how much you want for the sprocket / spacer.
That's sweet you have the spacer, I'd be good with going up a couple teeth and as I mentioned above, I'm going back to OEM hardware and will likely drill and safety wire them - not going to bank on getting so lucky twice, its a high consequence failure.
Let me know how much you want for the sprocket / spacer.
They were? Then I was wrong. I will add, if that sprocket was installed correctly, (not just the bolts) that mess would not have happened. That is an installation failure, not a hardware failure.
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