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I think I shorted a wire

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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 06:14 AM
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Exclamation I think I shorted a wire

I washed my '96 Heritage yesterday. About 2 hours after I finished, I tried to crank it to ride. As soon as I hit the starter, I heard a pop. I guess water was still somewhere it shouldn't have been. Now nothing lights up when I switch the bike on (gear indicator, etc) and nothing happens when I try to start. I'm fairly handy but get lost when it comes to wiring. Did I short out my ignition? Any advice on how to track it down or fix it?
 
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 07:47 PM
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Sounds like the main fuse had popped. I would check the fuses first, replace the ones that are burnt then check the starter wiring for water. There may be a short to ground caused by the water at the starter solenoid, otherwise you may have a broken seal on the solenoid, ignition switch or in one of the connectors between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 08:48 AM
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Thanks for your reply Zanthamos. I found out my bike has circuit breakers instead of fuses (except for 1 inline fuse that's not blown). After poking around the bike with my test light, I found the battery is still sending power, but when I switch the bike on, the places that had power before no longer do. Could a bad ignition switch cause that?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 09:18 AM
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I think it's much more likely that you have a blown or bad circuit breaker or fuse. You say they are not blown but check them with a meter (if you haven't already). If you or someone else could find a schematic that would help. There very likely is another fuse or fuesable link near the battery.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 02:45 PM
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Default Can't find the main breaker. Attached pics of schematic and wiring

I have my service manual, but I can't find the main breaker. I just see breakers for the ignition, instruments, accessories, and lights. There's also a relay next to those. The prongs where the relay plugs into do not have power going to them. I have a voltmeter, but I'm not good enough with electricity to know what the results mean. I used the light tester to just check for any power at all. The one inline fuse is for my trickle charger. I also disconnected all my grounds and cleaned those really well. I'm attaching a scan of the ignition schematic and a picture of under my seat in case it helps!
 
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 03:09 PM
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The main breaker is mounted on front of the rear fender extension.

You can follow the cable:

There are two electrical cables connected to the terminal on the starter solenoid, one cable goes to the battery, the other cable goes to the main breaker.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2015 | 12:08 PM
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Default New main breaker, still nothing

I replaced the main breaker today (thanks for your help Dan; it was hidden really well behind the oil pan!), but it's still not working. I used my multimeter today and saw that the battery has lots of juice but when I switch the bike on, the needle barely moves on the meter. Same thing for testing the breaker... lots of power going to it, but when I switch the bike on the power weakens to nearly nothing. Think I could have fried my battery? It still takes a charge...
 
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Old Oct 18, 2015 | 01:31 PM
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Am I correct in saying nothing electrical works? The lights don't even come on dimly? If they don't it's not the battery. The circuit is open before power gets to the starter or lights. If nothing is working the problem must be near the battery. Ground your test light on some bear metal. Check to see if the test light comes on when you touch the positive end of your battery. If not you have a bad ground. If the light comes on turn on the key. Move the test light to the main breaker then to ignition fuse. As you are moving the test light from the battery to points further away from the battery you will get to the point where the light no loinger lights. That's the place you are loosing voltage. For example if you get power on one terminal of the key switch but not the other then the key switch is bad or not really in the ON position. Let us know what you find.

EDIT: a bad connection right at the battery is very possible. Remove both battery cables. Scrape them to make sure corrosion isn't preventing a good connection. Then reattach the cables and try again. I say do this before you do the test with the light I talked about above.
 

Last edited by Durango Dave; Oct 18, 2015 at 01:41 PM.
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Old Oct 18, 2015 | 03:01 PM
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With your multimeter:

Touch the positive probe to the positive post on the battery, negative probe to negative post on battery.

Read voltage with switch off, read again with switch on.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 05:27 PM
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Have you cleaned the battery terminals?
 
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