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B0563 & P0563 Help

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Old Apr 13, 2016 | 11:07 AM
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Default B0563 & P0563 Help

I recently been getting the B0563 & P0563 codes on my 2009 FXDF. I've already done research and had check the usual suspects. I've replaced the battery. I've also replaced the voltage regulator. Cleared the codes. Still getting codes when I take it out for a ride. What else code it be? I have a couple days off this weekend and am going to check for loose or exposed wires grounding out. The only other thing I can think of it maybe the replacement Voltage regulator is bad too as I bought a "OEM replacement" unit for a company on Amazon for about half of what Harley wanted for one.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2016 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ravnos5811
I recently been getting the B0563 & P0563 codes on my 2009 FXDF. I've already done research and had check the usual suspects. I've replaced the battery. I've also replaced the voltage regulator. Cleared the codes. Still getting codes when I take it out for a ride. What else code it be? I have a couple days off this weekend and am going to check for loose or exposed wires grounding out. The only other thing I can think of it maybe the replacement Voltage regulator is bad too as I bought a "OEM replacement" unit for a company on Amazon for about half of what Harley wanted for one.
Have a look at the stator too. The proceedures in the stickeys in this section for troubleshooting.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2016 | 06:33 PM
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Here are a couple pages from the 2010 Electrical Diagnostic manual




 
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Old Apr 15, 2016 | 12:26 PM
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Thanks for the help. Looks and smells like the stator.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2016 | 07:13 AM
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You can search and find threads about stators taking out voltage regulators and vice versa. If the stator is trying to charge a bad battery it may put out high current for an extended period. This current heats up the stator winding's and the VR until something fails. If you are seeing over 15V out of your VR it is bad.
Here are somre checks to do:



Testing:

Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.
Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.
Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.


Battery testing:
First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.
If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
Voltmeter test:
Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.
12.7 v = 100% charge
12.6 v = 75%
12.3 v = 50%
12.0 v = 25%
11.8 v = 0%
Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.
If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:
LHCM 0.5
RHCM 0.5
Speedometer/ IM 0.5
Regulator 1.0
ABS 1.0
BCM 1.0
ECM 1.0
Security Siren 20.0
Radio 0.5
Amplifier 0.5
CB Module 0.5

If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.
Charging System Testing:
Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.
With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15.5V test the Voltage Regulator.

Stator testing
Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.
Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).
The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.
Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.
Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.
If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.

One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.

Voltage Regulator Testing

Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator.
If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.
 
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