Battery draw with key off
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Straight Jacket Memories and Sedative Highs
For reading amps its better to get a clamp on. DC clamps have come down in price, they used to be very expensive. I can't say the quality in the milli amp range though. Also not sure if milliamps is enough to cause an issue.
charging system and battery are typically the first places to start.
charging system and battery are typically the first places to start.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2015
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From: Arkansas
Just for S&G purposes, is the run switch in the run position and the FOB nearby? That could explain the clicking under the fuel tank as that would be the fuel pump priming the fuel system.
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Straight Jacket Memories and Sedative Highs
Unhook it from the battery when parked. Is it fine next time? I just don't think it is the problem on 2012. I would start with charging just to rule it out.
Also with a clamp on you can watch the polarity change. May be running off batter at idle. Rev it up, and it flips the other way.
A bike can run a long time off a charged battery and no stator.
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 268
Likes: 36
From: Athens Greece
i know which solenoid sound youre talking about...so that solenoid lets call it, moves when you power it, and moves back when you cut the power..
its NOT in the tank.. ive traced it to the throttle body area if that helps.. if you put your hand between the throttle body and tank palm down, fingers touching the TB, you can also feel it
its NOT in the tank.. ive traced it to the throttle body area if that helps.. if you put your hand between the throttle body and tank palm down, fingers touching the TB, you can also feel it
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Straight Jacket Memories and Sedative Highs
Wrong thread but BS forum will not let me delte so I must waste a post in this thread for people to scroll by.
Last edited by Zerk; May 23, 2018 at 06:24 PM.
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1st Gear
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 5
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From: Mass
I have done all of what ALL of you guys have suggested, no milli amp draw etc... I did buy a better meter as mine wouldn't read mA.
IAC motor sounds right for the noise.
But not to post the fix has always bothered me on forums, so the fix was the voltge regulator was intermitant. It put out 14.3v every time I put the meter on it, but the other day it totally crapped out with idiot lights, MIL and running on one cyl as I coasted into my garage... Reading about 2012 VR, word was there is a batch of the factory ones that dont cut it and mine was within the serial numbers of the bad batch. I asked my local dealer about it, but all he would say is to bring it in.So THANKS to all that posted and helped... Great to be out riding again!!!
IAC motor sounds right for the noise.
But not to post the fix has always bothered me on forums, so the fix was the voltge regulator was intermitant. It put out 14.3v every time I put the meter on it, but the other day it totally crapped out with idiot lights, MIL and running on one cyl as I coasted into my garage... Reading about 2012 VR, word was there is a batch of the factory ones that dont cut it and mine was within the serial numbers of the bad batch. I asked my local dealer about it, but all he would say is to bring it in.So THANKS to all that posted and helped... Great to be out riding again!!!
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