Stalling, surging and blowing out lights
Bike will be running fine, then while riding everything goes out (including all the lights) and it stalls. Usually it comes back to life shortly and I’ll notice my dash light looks brighter than usual for a few seconds. Then everything is normal again, except that lights are burned out. I’ve gone through two headlights and two load equalizers (I have aftermarket LED turn signals and brake lights installed).
Curious if this sounds like anything obvious to anyone? I wonder if it could be the voltage regulator, but I’m sure that’s not the only possibility.
I haven’t gotten to investigate very deeply yet but am planning to do so this week. I’m figuring the first thing I should do is unhook all the aftermarket stuff (heated gear and phone charger plugs, etc) and start testing stuff.
Bike is the ‘97 Fat Boy in my signature.
Last edited by rainsong; Nov 26, 2018 at 07:21 AM.
Unknown mileage
Unknown changes from stock
Unknown history of ownership
Unknown when the bike last ran OK without any problems
Unknown time between last three intermittent problems that are reported to be the same.
You report: Bike will be running fine, then while riding everything goes out (including all the lights) and it stalls. Usually it comes back to life shortly....Does this mean the bike is still rolling and restarts on its own?
You report: I’ll notice my dash light looks brighter than usual for a few seconds. Then everything is normal again, except that lights are burned out. I’ve gone through two headlights and two load equalizers (I have aftermarket LED turn signals and brake lights installed).
Have you considered review of charging system?
Voltage at battery post at rest, while cranking?
Voltage at battery post while above idle?
It is reading like you have an over voltage situation or a combination of loose cables, bad battery and bad regulator but it requires testing to isolate.
How is the ground (negative) cable on battery?
How is the battery itself?
What is voltage output of Stator in AC volts ?
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Nov 26, 2018 at 09:57 AM.
Voltage at battery post at rest, while cranking?
Voltage at battery post while above idle?
It is reading like you have an over voltage situation or a combination of loose cables, bad battery and bad regulator but it requires testing to isolate.
How is the ground (negative) cable on battery?
How is the battery itself?
What is voltage output of Stator in AC volts ?
The original stator went bad about 2 years ago, and I replaced both it and the voltage regulator back then with Cycle Electric parts. And of course, they’re both 6 months out of warranty now.
Anyway, I just thought I’d see if it sounded like anything obvious before I dive in to it this week.
Last edited by rainsong; Nov 26, 2018 at 09:19 AM.
Yep, these are all things I’m planning to check.
The original stator went bad about 2 years ago, and I replaced both it and the voltage regulator back then with Cycle Electric parts. And of course, they’re both 6 months out of warranty now.
Anyway, I just thought I’d see if it sounded like anything obvious before I dive in to it this week.
If OK, recharge it till green light. Regulator needs a good battery to be correct reading at 2000 rpm service manual rating.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Nov 26, 2018 at 10:06 AM.
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Yep, these are all things I’m planning to check.
The original stator went bad about 2 years ago, and I replaced both it and the voltage regulator back then with Cycle Electric parts. And of course, they’re both 6 months out of warranty now.
Anyway, I just thought I’d see if it sounded like anything obvious before I dive in to it this week.
Cycle electric is a good product..They always get good reviews.
2 years is not a long time but then again maybe you rode 100,000 miles in difficult roads within Alaska with high electrical demand heated products during those 2 years..
When lights burn, especially a headlight then i would think high voltage is getting past regulator....either due to a regulator failure or wire issue..or stator wire is somehow throwing unregulated AC voltage spikes into bike.
Cycle electric is a good product so unusual that a factory acquired part would be bad.
Why was original stator and regulator replaced 2 years ago? at what mileage? What went bad? was it a short to case at stator? broken wire? did stator burn-out? or did regulator give-up the ghost?
Is it possible that you have overtaxed the electrical output with numerous heated gear items and maybe a a battery that was not perfect thus destroying regulator a second time?
The battery cables can take some weird turns, are cables 100% OK.
I would test battery, then all connections to battery, then charging system connections then charging system.
If needed tape a voltage meter to tank in order to verify issue while riding or while lightly banging on hard parts of bike with rubber hammer (checking for loose connection) while bike is at high idle..
If this will be the third voltage regulator in bike history then it might be a good idea to study the matter in depth to not repeat the same problem.
Sometimes a quick diagnosis of a bad regulator alone might be a temporary solution but may not solve the recurring cause.
That is why sometimes, so many questions get asked.
Last edited by im; Nov 26, 2018 at 01:38 PM.
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When lights burn, especially a headlight then i would think high voltage is getting past regulator....either due to a regulator failure or wire issue..or stator wire is throwing unregulated AC voltage into bike.
Why was original stator and regulator replaced? at what mileage? What went bad? was it a short to case at stator? broken wire? did stator burn-out? or did regulator give-up the ghost?
Is it possible that you have overtaxed the electrical output with numerous heated gear items and maybe a a battery that is not perfect?
I would test battery, then connections, then charging system.
If needed tape a voltage meter to tank in order to verify issue.
Haven't really used my heated gear a ton since then, but who knows.
Stator over voltage is extremely unlikely.
edit:
Sometimes, particularly for intermittent issues, is most effective to replace the highest probability failure item and cross your fingers.
Last edited by TriGeezer; Nov 26, 2018 at 01:12 PM.











