Electrical/Lighting/Alarm Having electrical problems? Discussion on everything electrical and lighting systems.

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Old Apr 26, 2021 | 11:21 PM
  #61  
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If you have a small 12VDC test light you could see how much current it is by how brightly the light illuminated.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2021 | 04:19 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Zanthamos
If you have a small 12VDC test light you could see how much current it is by how brightly the light illuminated.
Thats a good idea.

After noticing the wiring from that always on wire... passing by something that shares a ground with the anti dive valve... I decided to touch that while I turn on the bike.. sure enough thats whats clicking in the front fairing. Should it be?
 
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Old Apr 28, 2021 | 04:44 PM
  #63  
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So the anti-dive module gets power from the front brake activation, it should have it's own ground according to the wiring diagram, on the back side of the brown connector on the main harness there is a jumper that goes from the R brake wire to the hole that is the BK wire going to the anti-dive module. So looks like you have a short either in the front brake switch or in the harness going from the handlebar to the main harness.

https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson....22402059!!0!37
 
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Old Apr 28, 2021 | 06:27 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Zanthamos
So the anti-dive module gets power from the front brake activation, it should have it's own ground according to the wiring diagram, on the back side of the brown connector on the main harness there is a jumper that goes from the R brake wire to the hole that is the BK wire going to the anti-dive module. So looks like you have a short either in the front brake switch or in the harness going from the handlebar to the main harness.

https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson....22402059!!0!37
If you look at the brown connector there is a black line that goes across from the anti dive module path to the red wire path. I assumed that meant they were connected somehow. If not what does it mean?
 
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Old Apr 28, 2021 | 11:50 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by 0003
If you look at the brown connector there is a black line that goes across from the anti dive module path to the red wire path. I assumed that meant they were connected somehow. If not what does it mean?
Read that a little closer. You had already pointed it out.

It should click. What I didn't specify was that it doesn't do it if my brake switch is in the closed position. So it's normal.

I'm going to take all of the tape off that part of the harnesses because that wire thats always on is red with a white stripe but im notbsure where it ACTUALLY goes... I assumed as per wiring diagram. It goes to electronic cruise control module... I think.
 

Last edited by 0003; Apr 29, 2021 at 12:13 AM.
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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 12:05 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Zanthamos
So the anti-dive module gets power from the front brake activation, it should have it's own ground according to the wiring diagram, on the back side of the brown connector on the main harness there is a jumper that goes from the R brake wire to the hole that is the BK wire going to the anti-dive module. So looks like you have a short either in the front brake switch or in the harness going from the handlebar to the main harness.

https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson....22402059!!0!37
Here's a picture...

Stop relay on the upper right... black female plug of red wire which goes directly to 87 terminal on stop relay . The white male side sticks out from a large portion of electrical tape in place of the original stuff...runs from about the coil all the way down to the cruise control module plug. That wire is red and white and always powered when ignition is on... it runs to cruise control module and that where i thought it gets its power... I tested for resistance. There is nothing that explains whats going on with the wiring once it hits that module.

with the cruise control module unplugged there is no power to that always on wire... with the cruise module plugged in there is power to the always on wire... BUT unless the red and black connectors are connected which is 48 a and b... there is no power at the G pin of the plug on the cruise module which is where that red and white wire connects...

Trying to figure it out by doubting what I think i know here... using tests.

My guess is that always on power is for the running lights of the taillight and tour pack lights. When I activate the brake switches it sends MORE power to the circuit to make it brighter... if this is the case then there is nothing wrong with that wire. Because it was red and white I assumed it was the control side of the relay.
 

Last edited by 0003; Apr 29, 2021 at 12:47 PM.
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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 10:58 PM
  #67  
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So that red wire with the white single din plug is the brake to cruise module to shutoff cruise, follow the wiring diagrams the R/W wire activates the relay, it goes from both front and rear brake switches, from the front brown connector there is a jumper from the red to the anti-dive module which is just a solenoid so it will click when powered and if it is clicking when the ignition switch is turned on then that part of the brake light circuit is getting power upon ignition and one of the two brake switches is stuck or the wiring is shorted to hot. If the brake light isn't always on then it is too low to trigger the relay. The red wire to the Cruise Control Module shouldn't have power until the relay is activated if it does pull the relay and check for power again. The relay activates pin 87 to pin 30 then pin 87A to pin 30. Pin 85 should be ground and 86 is from the brake switches.
 

Last edited by Zanthamos; Apr 29, 2021 at 11:02 PM.
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Old May 2, 2021 | 08:48 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Zanthamos
So that red wire with the white single din plug is the brake to cruise module to shutoff cruise, follow the wiring diagrams the R/W wire activates the relay, it goes from both front and rear brake switches, from the front brown connector there is a jumper from the red to the anti-dive module which is just a solenoid so it will click when powered and if it is clicking when the ignition switch is turned on then that part of the brake light circuit is getting power upon ignition and one of the two brake switches is stuck or the wiring is shorted to hot. If the brake light isn't always on then it is too low to trigger the relay. The red wire to the Cruise Control Module shouldn't have power until the relay is activated if it does pull the relay and check for power again. The relay activates pin 87 to pin 30 then pin 87A to pin 30. Pin 85 should be ground and 86 is from the brake switches.
Thank you. I think what im saying is that I've followed the red and white wires to 86 on relay... they are doing what they should. That red (whiteish stripe) wire with constant power seems like its set up to run my tailight as running light... so there is always power at 87 too... that leads to brake lights but MORE power when I hit brakes. Maybe this isn't what the wiring diagram calls for but that seems like a functional arrangement no? Is that not how it works? This is pure deduction from testing and thinking. The electrical tape suggests that something is possibly not exactly the same as original.

I tried to clarify later on that anti dive is actually only working when brake switch is activated so working as it should.

Also there is nothing connected to 87a. I believe it just operates as a disconnect like an off position for pin 30
 
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Old May 2, 2021 | 10:24 AM
  #69  
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87a is open. If you are getting constant power on that R/W wire then something is not wired correctly as the tail light is a 1157 socket in that it has 2 filiments so 2 contacts plus ground. Tail lights is a dimmer filiments on the incandescent bulb and has its own separate circuit from the brake light.
 
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Old May 3, 2021 | 02:42 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Zanthamos
87a is open. If you are getting constant power on that R/W wire then something is not wired correctly as the tail light is a 1157 socket in that it has 2 filiments so 2 contacts plus ground. Tail lights is a dimmer filiments on the incandescent bulb and has its own separate circuit from the brake light.
Ok so 87 should not have any power unless relay is switched?

Take a look at this tour pack wiring... I can't believe it. Should have pulled it off sooner. I knew the tour pack and saddle bag lights were the major disaster So I just disconnected and kept looking for the other problems.





 
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