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Connecting the VR at the silver stud protects the wiring going back to the VR, in case it shorts to ground. I think this is the reason for connecting at the silver stud.
Most vehicles have no breaker between the alternator/voltage regulator and the battery. Harley connected the VR at the copper stud for many years.
Lol... I know that but I was trying to get a consensus by consulting many sources...
so what do you think... I have an acc wire (red) a voltage regulator wire black with a blue band on it... and a wire that is connected to the same post as my postive cable on the solenoid or starter motor... which ones should be paired in your opinion on which posts?
so what do you think... I have an acc wire (red) a voltage regulator wire black with a blue band on it... and a wire that is connected to the same post as my postive cable on the solenoid or starter motor... which ones should be paired in your opinion on which posts?
I can`t understand what you are asking for here. They should be connected just like shown in the wiring diagram.
Have you looked at the wiring diagram in the link that I posted?
It shows the wire from voltage regulator connected directly at the positive battery post.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Mar 31, 2021 at 10:44 AM.
I will have to spend some time seriously looking it through. I can see what you mean about the regulator straight to the battery and the copper side vs the silver side.
Where do you get these diagrams? I looked up an actual 93 service manual but couldnt find a physical copy.
Im really curious why when comparing the start and stop relay the ground is reversed from 86 yo 85... all relays are the same so why aren't all sockets wired the same... more curiosity than function need
The factory used to connect the voltage regulator wire to the copper stud on the main breaker, up to early `90s or so, then they switched over to the silver stud.
The layout of the clymer diagrams are not great, a lot of them are incorrect.
The battery post melted because of a poor connection, most likely it was loose.
If you connected both of those units via the sae plug, then you crossed your battery connections (shorting the positive directly to the negative), it would have just blown the little fuse.
The battery post melted because of a poor connection, most likely it was loose.
If you connected both of those units via the sae plug, then you crossed your battery connections (shorting the positive directly to the negative), it would have just blown the little fuse.
The reason I was using alligator clips is because it wouldn't take a charge via pigtail... I assumed fust was broken without even looking... Im so comfortable doing this and yet not used to having two connectors in such close proximity that you could ever plug into the wrong one. If fuse was already blown shouldn't it have done nothing?
I'm trying to print that wiring diagram.... I want to print it huge at staples. Id like to color it and draw arrows representing current flow. Current flow arrows would make these so much easier to understand.
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