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Unless someone added one aftermarket there is no relay, no need to have one with that low power draw. Clicking is likely blowing the CB due to a dead short that is likely under the rear fender. That bike uses CBs and not fuses but CBs go bad an blow too early as well so you may want to replace it and see if is just a bad breaker.
The VR was installed on the wrong stud of the main CB as it should have been put on the silver side not the copper side, this helps protect the battery in an over current condition, the pin 30 of the start relay definitely looks like you need to depin it and repair, likely will cause starting issues, check for voltage at that wire as it is the supply wire for the solenoid power. You can bench test the solenoid by applying 12vdc to the small green wire and ground to the case of the starter, it'll either kick or it won't. If it kicked and the solenoid is removed from the starter then you can with power applied to the electromagnet side you can check the continuity between the two big conductors to verify power going from battery to the starter.
Thanks. Wiring diagrams all say something different. Why is there so much conflicting info? I'm still not sure... the postive cable that goes directly to the starter has another thin wire encased along side it going to same connection on the starter then back up to that circuit breaker on the same copper side as the voltage regulator.
I assumed I might be wrong because of the conflicting diagrams.
The more I thought about it the more it seems that this configuration shares the postive power from battery and starter as well as the power from the charging system before heading across the circuit breaker and into the rest of the bikes wiring...while protecting the bikes circuits from an overload from over charging from regulator...It would be better to destroy the battery than melt the wiring no? In any case the postive cable that runs down from the cb to the starter and back up to the battery isn't going through the circuit breaker is it? Seems like its just going across it... maybe it still works the same I guess. Copper side has a b for battery side too doesn't it. I watched a video with a cut out and its the copper side that does the breaking...?
I realized my goof right after I posted, so I deleted my post, but you were too quick...
Yeah I'm kind of using this to document what I know and what I think I know.... and as a way to be told that I dont know... and what I should know instead. Lol... I'm very confused but between replies and typing out loud I'm working my way through it. I have number of problems so its a good idea to just dig deep and solve them all now.
With a seperate amp... could that be reason for 50 amp breaker instead of 30 and maybe even a hidden breaker that keeps clicking when I pull brakes because its the source of short
The thin wire on the main CB from the battery is likely from the Voltage Regulator especially if it is a black wire, but it should be on the silver side not the copper side.
The thin wire on the main CB from the battery is likely from the Voltage Regulator especially if it is a black wire, but it should be on the silver side not the copper side.
is voltage regulator 100 percent.
The other wire goes to the same place as my postive cable from battery. I believe it is specifically the starter motor power supply from battery direct. I'm finding more wiring diagrams saying that my wiring is correct....
this one below doest show poles at all
The second diagram shows your way...I think the difference is 1993 vs 1994.. the main circuit breaker is wired very differently and different things are paired together. My 1993 is wired as if it was a 1994.
The important thing to figure out is why someone did that... i shouldn't religiously follow 1993 diagram if 1994 like changes or aftermarket demands like stereo have been made to the wiring. I need to understand better.
The factory used to connect the voltage regulator wire to the copper stud on the main breaker, up to early `90s or so, then they switched over to the silver stud.
The layout of the clymer diagrams are not great, a lot of them are incorrect.
The purpose of the VR being on the silver side of the CB is to isolate the battery in event of a VR failure that over-currents the circuit, this helps prevent battery fires.
Connecting the VR at the silver stud protects the wiring going back to the VR, in case it shorts to ground. I think this is the reason for connecting at the silver stud.
Most vehicles have no breaker between the alternator/voltage regulator and the battery. Harley connected the VR at the copper stud for many years.
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Hmmm
