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Does the voltage regulator still come into play for consideration? Was kind of thinking maybe that rules it out because my perceivable voltage drops as per the guage happens both on and off... however when its on and I have the multimeter on the battery there is no such drop just a stead trickling down.... 13.00 12.99 12.98 nothing major but... not exactly those numbers either probably lower its been a year since I did all that.
With the vehicle off the VR has no job to do as it only regulates and rectifies the AC voltage from the alternator. If the voltage is as you say, check at the battery with the engine running and seed what the voltage output of the VR is while the bike is running. The voltage output should be around 14.5VDC at 2000 RPM. If it is lower than that check the output of the stator to the VR, it should be around 40VAC at 2000 RPM, if it isn't your stator is weak most likely due to coils shorting across each other.
With the vehicle off the VR has no job to do as it only regulates and rectifies the AC voltage from the alternator. If the voltage is as you say, check at the battery with the engine running and seed what the voltage output of the VR is while the bike is running. The voltage output should be around 14.5VDC at 2000 RPM. If it is lower than that check the output of the stator to the VR, it should be around 40VAC at 2000 RPM, if it isn't your stator is weak most likely due to coils shorting across each other.
Ok thanks.
My biggest question is what would have happened when I linked the battery to itself via alligator clips on battery to the pigtail connector that goes to the battery... it popped and smoked but I couldnt see where the smoke had come from.
Won't be able to do that for a bit. I did do that last year but i can't remember the result. Must have been good if I cant remember. I have the front fairing off and I'm addressing the stereo first... it doesn't work so I'm wondering if there is a draw or a short there. Then everything I can see that was modified or disconnected... I'll use the connectors you suggested for whats necessary and completely remove anything that ill never use.
Can I put a direct voltage to the voltage meter in my cluster to see if its working right?
Like it said every time i apply the brakes or use my turn signals it drops to 8-10 volts. I think it could be in my hand control or one one the components along that signal path.
I want to find the problem before hooking up again... it melted the negative battery terminal and the shielding around the negative ground wire. Ill take a pic.
Everyitme i pull the front brake ot rear brake... I hear a click... on while I hold it and immediately after I release it. The closest I can get to the sound is the circuit breaker by the battery...
The front brake light switch can make a clicking noise....
It's louder and can be heard near the battery like the circuit breaker.. I know that's close to rear brake switch too... now I can hear up near the front as well... there are 5 circuit breakers there. I hear click and the voltage meter in dash drops significantly even though battery voltage is only slowly draining
If the brake switches are blowing the CB then you have a short, it would be either handlebar to the main harness, switches or tail light harness. If it blows with only one switch hit then it is that segment, if it blows with either switch hit then look at the tail light harness specifically at the R/Y wire as it is the brake light wire.
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Let's see that wiring
