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I dont believe its the Circuit breaker. Its the relay... from what I read thats what they're supposed to do. I can't find the one thats clicking up front...seemingly on the left front... I pulled the ones under the seat out and tested them for resistance. At the 200 ohms setting I was only getting 20 ohms or less. Way below spec. I could swap with a good one but what ever burnt these ones out woud likely burn a new out.
So I looked up what could burn out relays... the most likely thing that applies is "rated load capacity exceeded" The previous owner had his voltage regulatory replaced recently.... I remember that a stator and a regular can stress each other... thats as far as I got tonight...
oh but better was picking up the manual... even if it is Clymer.... it treats me like I know nothing which is the best state of mind to be in anyway because sometimes I really dont.
I can now run all these tests on my own... instead of waiting for my friend to come by to help me....or waiting for people to find the time in the event they even possess the knowledge... to reply. I can waste less of your time too and reserve my questions for stuff I really can't figure out. lol
Pulled the whole stereo system out carefully too while documenting everything.
All of these are a potentially applicable really
There is a main breaker (30 amp) and three (15 amp) breakers on that bike.
There is only one relay, the start relay.
You need to throw the clymer manual into the trash and get a factory service manual (which will have a wiring diagram).
I can take pictures for you... there is a starter relay and a stop light relay side by side. There is a main circuit breaker in the same area and up front in the fairing there is a set of 5 circuit breakers.
Clymer has wiring diagrams. Because of that attitude I didn't even open the manual this time around... that was dumb of me.
Factory is better and more specific for one model one year... thats great but this is working out better than I remember clymer being... I could potentially finish this job before harley could get me the manual anyhow.
The reason I say there must be another relay (even though the wiring diagram disagrees lol) is because the exact same noise that my stop relay is making is being made up front as well at the exact same time when I depress the breaks... I dont feel anything from those 5 circuit breakers though and the sound is more to the left and lower... I only have a pic of the 5 in the fairing right now
Check your wiring under the rear fender going to the rear tail light, you should be able to shine a flashlight under there and get a good look at the wiring to see if your rear wheel abraded the wire cable. You said your lights shorted out while riding over a bump. If they are abrades it could cause a short and cause the CB to trip. Removal of the rear tire may be necessary for repair.
The center wire for 87a looks like its been nearly pulled out. I can't tell how much meat is really in there. Not as bad but similar look for bottom wire 30. Seems like that could be quite a problem.
I just pulled out the main circuit breaker and its a 50 amp... wiring diagram says 30 amp. Wouldn't that allow too many amps before activation?
I have a faint memory of someone saying that they kept tripping their CB so they put in a bigger one... don't know of it was this bike or not... its such a faint memory... could have been anyone... I would imagine that the stereo and additional amplifier they installed took more power than stock harley.
Here's a picture of a wiring diagram for voltage regulator off the internet.
My voltage regulator was wired to the copper stud side of that circuit breaker... along with the black wire that heads down to my starter along with the postive cable...
Unless someone added one aftermarket there is no relay, no need to have one with that low power draw. Clicking is likely blowing the CB due to a dead short that is likely under the rear fender. That bike uses CBs and not fuses but CBs go bad an blow too early as well so you may want to replace it and see if is just a bad breaker.
The VR was installed on the wrong stud of the main CB as it should have been put on the silver side not the copper side, this helps protect the battery in an over current condition, the pin 30 of the start relay definitely looks like you need to depin it and repair, likely will cause starting issues, check for voltage at that wire as it is the supply wire for the solenoid power. You can bench test the solenoid by applying 12vdc to the small green wire and ground to the case of the starter, it'll either kick or it won't. If it kicked and the solenoid is removed from the starter then you can with power applied to the electromagnet side you can check the continuity between the two big conductors to verify power going from battery to the starter.
Last edited by Zanthamos; Mar 28, 2021 at 06:45 PM.
Unless someone added one aftermarket there is no relay, no need to have one with that low power draw. Clicking is likely blowing the CB due to a dead short that is likely under the rear fender. That bike uses CBs and not fuses but CBs go bad an blow too early as well so you may want to replace it and see if is just a bad breaker.
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