Bike shuts down randomly while riding
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 24
Likes: 6
From: Tulsa
Bike shuts down randomly while riding
Got a 2000 Heritage Springer, carbureted that will randomly shut down while riding. It has done it during the 1st mile of a ride or 60 miles into a ride or not at all. Will either shut down for just a second or two and start running again on it's own or other times I will have to hit the start switch to fire it back up. The lights remain on and the odometer and everything is still working. I have checked all my battery connections and everything is tight. Not sure where to start at? Has anyone experienced something similar? Years ago I had issues with my tank switch and took it apart and cleaned the contacts and everything was good again. But when this happened I remember I did not have any dash lights or odometer and it would not start. It's just as if I turned off the run switch on the handle bar housing. No issues starting it at all, always fires right up with no hesitation, every time. The plug wires are all snug too. I have 56,000 miles on the bike and purchased it new. Only work that has been done on it was the cam tensioners replaced and larger cams. Really appears to be electrical, no coughing or sputtering. Just shuts down. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much.
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 24
Likes: 6
From: Tulsa
Okay, thanks for the replies, I appreciate it. I know these type of "gremlins" can be hard to trace down because there are so many variables. So by ignition switch we are referring to the tank switch then correct and not the run/stop switch? What type of lubricant is best to use? Just some Di-Electric grease? When I had the issue years ago I took the switch apart and cleaned all the contacts with a scotch brite pad. I never put any Di-Electric grease on it or anything. Prolly should have. I thought about changing the switch out but the key matches my fork lock too so did not want to have two separate keys, one for the switch and the fork lock. Do they sell a combo set that matches? I also wondered if it could be the coil and plug wires having an issue but I am not familiar with it enough to know the symptoms or issues that could be cause by a bad coil or plug wires. Should I maybe replace them as well with the bike having over 55K miles or do those typically last a while? Thanks for the help, it's greatly appreciated.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,447
Likes: 463
From: USA
Okay, thanks for the replies, I appreciate it. I know these type of "gremlins" can be hard to trace down because there are so many variables. So by ignition switch we are referring to the tank switch then correct and not the run/stop switch? What type of lubricant is best to use? Just some Di-Electric grease? When I had the issue years ago I took the switch apart and cleaned all the contacts with a scotch brite pad. I never put any Di-Electric grease on it or anything. Prolly should have. I thought about changing the switch out but the key matches my fork lock too so did not want to have two separate keys, one for the switch and the fork lock. Do they sell a combo set that matches? I also wondered if it could be the coil and plug wires having an issue but I am not familiar with it enough to know the symptoms or issues that could be cause by a bad coil or plug wires. Should I maybe replace them as well with the bike having over 55K miles or do those typically last a while? Thanks for the help, it's greatly appreciated.
You are correct. The tank switch out in the open might be the place to start. Not going to the manual but, I believe HD recommends a silicone product as lube for points like this. Ive used it on throttle cables, brake/ clutch lever pins... possibly a switch replacement could solve it best.
It just doesnt sound like ignition to me to just so randomly shut down then fire up running without a hitch. JMO.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,414
Likes: 433
From: Arkansas
Normally what happens with the ignition switches is the contacts start to wear out and arc then comes contacts burning and melting, usually when it's just a random issue you can disassemble it and clean up the contacts and you'll be fine for quite a while, othewise change out the ignition switch. If you get the switch from HD you can give the key number on your barrel key flat under the black plastic and they'll key the switch to your key.
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Tulsa
I've read other things on the circuit breaker. Is this under the seat near the battery tray? Do I just replace it with a new 30 amp breaker? I thought I saw something somewhere where others said they had to go with a 40 amp or something like that. Is that correct? Do you have any more info on this or what I need to do specifically? Thanks
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Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 24
Likes: 6
From: Tulsa
Normally what happens with the ignition switches is the contacts start to wear out and arc then comes contacts burning and melting, usually when it's just a random issue you can disassemble it and clean up the contacts and you'll be fine for quite a while, othewise change out the ignition switch. If you get the switch from HD you can give the key number on your barrel key flat under the black plastic and they'll key the switch to your key.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,081
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From:
Sometimes if a loose connection is suspect i try the rubber mallet method.
Get a rubber mallet.
Remove seat.
Start bike.
Then with bike running I start tapping hard parts with a rubber mallet.
Axles, handlebar ends, frame parts etc. Basically introducing simulated road vibration.
If you do not have original handlebars, grips or controls then something could have pinched the stop/run switch on bars.
Since lights stay ON it seems like it might be a start/run switch situation or a sensor wire is loose and that is why it restarts if bike is already rolling and in gear.
Perhaps the CRANK SHAFT position sensor connector. Sensor by oil filter. Connector for sensor runs on that wire but much further away.
Sometimes people remove that sensor by oil filter to access oil filter and other times they damage sensor wire at sensor end then other times the connector gets loose or damaged.
Get a rubber mallet.
Remove seat.
Start bike.
Then with bike running I start tapping hard parts with a rubber mallet.
Axles, handlebar ends, frame parts etc. Basically introducing simulated road vibration.
If you do not have original handlebars, grips or controls then something could have pinched the stop/run switch on bars.
Since lights stay ON it seems like it might be a start/run switch situation or a sensor wire is loose and that is why it restarts if bike is already rolling and in gear.
Perhaps the CRANK SHAFT position sensor connector. Sensor by oil filter. Connector for sensor runs on that wire but much further away.
Sometimes people remove that sensor by oil filter to access oil filter and other times they damage sensor wire at sensor end then other times the connector gets loose or damaged.