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the regulator must have a GOOD ground, will not work without it. a lot of people will add a secondary ground as the system grounds from the case to engine frame. it is common to see a spike to 15 volts since the clamping diode is around 14.9 volts. even electronics have a skew. best way to tell is put the system on an O scope and observe the wave form. remember this is a pmg and is rpm dependent on the output. the raw wave form will not be a true sine wave due to the hand-off of the magnetic fields as magnets swap poles.
as a side note: the hd regulator has a protection circuit that dumps the ac to ground, right off i do not remember the zener cut off. a old wives tale says the hd system dump un-used energy to ground, not true even for generators, that would mean the system is in full output 100% of the time. the pmg is designed to output the best in the mid rpm range where most sane people ride.
I'm probably missing something but it seems like the first part of your statement contradicts the second part?
Cycle Electric has this on their site: A more efficient approach to rectifying regulators. To control voltage on Harley-Davidson alternators other rectifier regulators dump current to ground. This causes maximum stator current and temperature at all times. Cycle Electric rectifying regulators block current to control voltage. This reduces stator current resulting in lower temperature and less drag on the motor which means more efficient operation. The largest and most noticeable benefit is a smoother charge to the battery. This means less battery maintenance and longer battery life.
The dealership called me today and said my stator and voltage regulator are bad. Imagine that. While they are at it they are going to replace the compensator too. Gonna cost me $50 and get fresh parts. The dealership gets paid and everyone is happy. Why didn't the first dealership do this before I got stranded the first time? Instead they handed me a line of crap twice.
I wouldn't say solved, spent the week tinkering with it. Removed regulator, cleaned pins, greased and reinstalled. On first start up the volt gauge stayed below 11. Battery and engine light lit. Checked voltage at battery and was at 11.4 steady. Rev up engine a few times and let idle couple minutes, no change. Figured whatever i did finished it off. Called local shop to see if a new one was on shelf, tech claimed they keep a couple on hand. 10 minutes later i was walking by bike and decided to try it again. Started up and gauge came right up to 14.4 and held there. Multimeter on battery read 14.34v no issue. Tried again half hour later same result. Took out for a few drives and a couple stops in between and all was well ?
Still don't know for sure what exact problem is but will see what the future holds.
They changed my stator and voltage regulator. Got more spring in it's step. Might do you well to change the VR. They said mine was intermittent. When cold worked, when hot didn't.
Especially when ambient temperature was around 85-90.
Mine seems to do it only after bike is warmed up and i make a short stop somewhere. I believe once i'm back on the road and the airflow hits it, it cools off enough to start working again. At least that's what makes sense currently ? Going to go ahead and replace regulator first and then go from there.
Cycle Electric has this on their site: A more efficient approach to rectifying regulators. To control voltage on Harley-Davidson alternators other rectifier regulators dump current to ground. This causes maximum stator current and temperature at all times. Cycle Electric rectifying regulators block current to control voltage. This reduces stator current resulting in lower temperature and less drag on the motor which means more efficient operation.
I have read this on the packaging of their products, and it has always puzzled me...
The stator puts out voltage dependent on RPM of the magnet, there is no control over the voltage in the stator/magnet.
The voltage is controlled by the voltage regulator.
Current is determined by the resistance of the electrical system.
Cycle electric says they control voltage by blocking amperage in the stator?
I have read this on the packaging of their products, and it has always puzzled me...
The stator puts out voltage dependent on RPM of the magnet, there is no control over the voltage in the stator/magnet.
The voltage is controlled by the voltage regulator.
Current is determined by the resistance of the electrical system.
Cycle electric says they control voltage by blocking amperage in the stator?
They must have invented a new Ohm`s Law...
I gave them a call once, (CE), to ask if they could explain in laymen's terms how they are able to do that. I was put on hold, transferred to another guy, asked the question again and I could hear him ask someone else in the background and he came back and said "No, that's proprietary information".
Harley regulator was $200 with one year warranty, aftermarket was $50 with lifetime warranty. Went with the aftermarket unit and has been all good for 300 miles now
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