Need Help - please!
Your bike has a starter relay, well solenoid. But it is mounted on the starter motor itself. They are known to fail, but you are not describing the symptoms of their failing. If it fails, everything works on the bike, it recognizes the fob, but there is only a "click" when you push the starter button. This is not what you are describing.
If the bike is giving you an "enter code" error and failing to respond, it is either not receiving the signal from the fob, or not recognizing the signal it is receiving.
Not receiving the signal from the fob is most likely, and most likely the fob battery, as others have mentioned. There are no special steps mating or pairing steps needed after replacing the fob's battery.
Beware that many fob batteries now days have a coating on them. It tastes horrible and stains things blue when it gets wet. It also tends to block electrical contact when installed. I have found I often need to wash new batteries in order to get them to work when installed in a fob because of this. So I would recommend you wash your new fob battery and try again.
The fob signal is received via the BCM, I believe. It is possible the BCM has failed, but I highly doubt it. It is also possible that the fob itself has failed, but I also highly doubt it.
Your bike is powering up from the battery, by your description. Namely the illumination of "enter code". You can further test powering up by shaking the bike, or standing it upright, tripping the security, which should start flashing the turn signals in indignation. If the bike has a siren, that too will then go off, but that is powered separately. If none of the security is responding, you do have something else going on. A weak ground or battery connection is often the culprit, but mouse damage happens to wires. As well, did you put the bike in transport mode or such when you put it away?
Everything is wired very differently. Power doesn't go through a switch and to a light. It all goes back to various computer units, they take the signal from the switch and send juice to bulb. If something shorts the computer module shuts it down and trips a code for diagnostics. So there really are fewer fuses needed.
So you've got a 40 amp main fuse that everything runs through, which splits off to one fuse for the controls and system to fire the bike up, and the other protects everything else.














