Resolved: intermittent no start issue
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2024
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From: Virginia
Resolved: intermittent no start issue
I've been having this perplexing and puzzling problem with my 2019 Heritage 114 intermittently not starting. I was getting ready to post something here but figured it out this evening. Thought I would post the resolution here in case it is helpful to someone in the future. I wrote down all of my symptoms and everything I had tried, dropped it into ChatGPT, and, based on a few key points, it gave me a number of likely causes along with the fix. Turns out it was dead on in this case. To be honest, I prefer dropping the issue here in the forum and letting you guys figure it out. AI can be inconsistent.TL;DR - after sitting a day or two, regardless of on or off trickle charger, sometimes the bike won't start. Turns over but just doesn't seem to have enough oomph to fire up. The main ground connection for the negative battery cable was loose. I cleaned up the connectors, properly tighted the nut holding it on, applied dielectric grease. Expecting this to be the long term fix.
Notes
Sometimes, usually after the bike has sat for a couple of days, the bike won't start.
Notes
Sometimes, usually after the bike has sat for a couple of days, the bike won't start.
- It will turn over but just won't have enough juice to kick it over all the way
- The speedo will go dark when trying to start it when it doesn't start
- No other accessories on the bike
- I've checked the voltage at the pigtail and it has 12.6-12.8 when off before I start the first try. When started at idle, it seems normal 13.8-14.5 typically.
- Checking directly against the battery posts with a multimeter yields same
- Voltage while cranking - dropped to 9.55 volts (but decided to start)
- It tends to drop off more the more times I try to start it consecutively
- This behavior doesn't seem to be affected if it is or isn't put on a trickle charge - a new NOCO Genius 5 set to AGM.
- I can easily jump start the bike with a booster pack. I connect to the starter lug and a ground point. Fires right up.
- Last year, I replaced the battery which was a HD with a date from 2021
- I used a YUASA YTX20LBS which probably was not enough CCA with 270
- This November, I replaced the YUASA with an OEM HD with 315 CCA, mostly thinking it needed more CCA.
- I replaced my Black and Decker trickle charger with the NOCO Genius 5.
- The SAE connector pigtail seemed to have a short in it. It would lose continuity if it bent it at certain angles. I cut it back and spliced in a new end and it maintains continuity.
- I've cleaned the clean ground connections at the left side of the frame under the seat. Have not checked the main battery ground cable other than visually. A little hard to reach.
- Tested for parasitic draw. Unhooked the negative cable. Connected a cable with alligator clips across the cable and negative post. Connected the multimeter one to the post and one to the cable. Waited a couple of hours. Turned the meter on and disconnected the alligator wire. Got 0.0 mA. If I just connect the meter and turn it on, it goes to 38.5 mA and then fairly quickly drops down to 0.0. This seems odd to me.
Seasoned HDF Member
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From: England
I cleaned up the connectors, properly tighted the nut holding it on, applied dielectric grease. Expecting this to be the long term fix.
Dielectric grease is actually an insulator.
Seasoned HDF Member
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From: South Carolina
Silicone grease (dielectric grease) would be my choice; it withstands heat better.
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From: Honah Lee
Actually Petroleum jelly is also like dielectric grease. An insulation. However it is also destructive to rubber and plastics.
Dielectric grease or petroleum jelly on plug in low votage and amp connections like ECM and BCMs can create real issues.
On the starting system, get a good clean connection. Tighten it and then if you want, dab on a little film of dielectric grease to the top and sides as a seal.
Petroleum jelly seems to run and spread out from heat more then the dielectric grease.
Dielectric grease or petroleum jelly on plug in low votage and amp connections like ECM and BCMs can create real issues.
On the starting system, get a good clean connection. Tighten it and then if you want, dab on a little film of dielectric grease to the top and sides as a seal.
Petroleum jelly seems to run and spread out from heat more then the dielectric grease.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Dec 6, 2025 at 07:31 AM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2024
Posts: 157
Likes: 65
From: Virginia
Thanks for the feedback.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2024
Posts: 157
Likes: 65
From: Virginia
I went out for a ride this afternoon and noticed that my LCD screen on the speedometer stayed bright the entire time. Previously, I thought there was an issue with the ambient light sensor. Seems it was the ground connection also. Yay.
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: England
Dielectric grease or petroleum jelly on plug in low votage and amp connections like ECM and BCMs can create real issues.
If you read the specs on the connectors you will see they have a finite number of insertions as they wear just a little with each insertion.
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2024
Posts: 157
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From: Virginia
I think I need to rename the thread. After cleaning and tightening the battery ground cable, it started fine for a day or two. I then had it on the battery maintainer for a week. Went to ride it yesterday, confident in it starting, and it wouldn't start. Are you kidding me? Same symptoms as before. My current suspicion is that it's the starter, or solenoid more specifically. I went out to the garage later in the day to check the voltage on the starter by using my multimeter between the starter lug and an engine ground. Of course, it decided to start up then. 
Voltage dropped to around 10.0 - 10.2. Starter was a little sluggish but it started.
I think I till try cleaning the cable connection on the starter lug although I don't think it's corroded.
Next option would be to replace the solenoid. With the M8 starters, it does not appear that you can get a rebuild kit for solenoid. I have found some after market solenoid replacements for around $80. Has anyone tried these? The OEM starter is listed at $450. Will try the solenoid based on that price I think.
Voltage dropped to around 10.0 - 10.2. Starter was a little sluggish but it started.I think I till try cleaning the cable connection on the starter lug although I don't think it's corroded.
Next option would be to replace the solenoid. With the M8 starters, it does not appear that you can get a rebuild kit for solenoid. I have found some after market solenoid replacements for around $80. Has anyone tried these? The OEM starter is listed at $450. Will try the solenoid based on that price I think.
