The alternator stator puts out the AC voltage from the spinning magnetic rotor. I am assuming you took the 32 volt AC reading off the battery terminals and not one of the 4 leads off the regulator. If so is pretty damning info on the regulator. Obvious one of the diodes is shorted thru. What I do not understand is how it can still be putting out the high DC. It really should be low. If you do replace regulator, be sure to pull out from bike and charge battery. Then carry it in and have it checked. If the diode is shorted thru, it took some kind of heavy load to do that. I been running all day and just checked mine. Since my battery is well charged, my 2000 rpm voltage is 14.22 DC and 0 AC. At idle it jumps around easily .25 since it can barely keep up and the solid state control wants to overshoot till it catches itself. I am surprised at 32AC volts coming thru that you have any electronics left. If this happens on a older GM car before OB2, it takes out the ignition module.

 

If you had shavings on the sensor, from where did they come? And how many more are in there? You must look see! Something else is going on. Find out before too much damage is done.

 

If you had shavings on the sensor, from where did they come? How many more are in there? What's causing them? Find out before too much damage is done!
Then trace your wiring.


Water from the car wash took out a turn signal switch which screwed up my turn and lean switch until I replaced the switch. Mines a '04 FLHT

 

the metal on the sensor is 47,000 miles of wear. If I open it up,it's going to be for a 6 speed gearset. Rip, I took the reading off the battery while running -the ac on my meter has 2 settings 200 and 500vac. It was on 200 when I read 32v. I'm going to look one more time and I'll post back.

 

Not running I have 13.5 v. Running 15.3. And my regulator only has 2 wires coming out of it.

 

Battery needs to set 24 hours to stabilize for an actual voltage check. Is your 2000 two phase like the Sportys? It would still have two AC lines and the 12V DC battery line hooked to it. The frame is probably the ground. Most people refer this a a single ohase but electrically it's not. The AC side just does not have an earth ground. If you were to take the two AC lines coming off the stator and hooked one to an earth ground, you would have half the voltage as you do when the two go into the regulator.

My typical canned battery spill..

After a good 24 hour low amp controlled charge and the battery has set about 24 hours voltage should be about 12.8 volts.
12.8 = full charged
12.6 = 75%
12.3 = 50%
12.0 =25%

Always check both the terminals at the battery lead and also at the terminal of the wire. That helps to verify connection.
With a DC volt meter (that has a feature to lock high and low reading is best) hooked across the battery terminals and reading 12.8 or so, crank motor and while its cranking it should not drop below about 9.6 volts and as soon as it starts and throttled up to 2000 rpm or so should read around 14.8 volts. The 2000 rpm is the bench mark standard. The crank check shows a rough check of the reserve amperage capacity of the battery while cranking with a 150-200 amp load on it. The 14.8 shows a good alternator and if you leave it on a while as the regulatory will drop the voltage a little showing itself working. However, with the lights and stuff always on it will never drop back much.
When a battery wears out a good charge will show fairly good voltage, but the battery can still have very low amperage capacity which will show in the crude crank test above, but it really should be checked after a good charge by removing it from bike and getting a free check at a place like AutoZone that has a fancy load meter check that gives you a print out of the battery health. Battery MUST BE CHARGED to check it. Be sure they set their meter to correct cold cranking amperage stated on the battery. Never charge the AGM absorbed glass mat battery with a regular car battery charger unless it is a newer one that says safe with this type of battery. Also by taking battery out you now know you have good connections. Vibration tends to loosen the connections or a little corrosion will prevent charging or cause starting problems. Using the maintenance charger can get more years from a battery but be careful here. You do not want the last start 5 miles from home. If it still grunts when you first hit starter or kicks back, replace it. After a few years, charge and pull battery and have it checked for cold cranking amperage ever spring. Even then, if it grunts most ever start, I would replace it. If they have one, Wal-Mart's AGM absorbed glass mat battery is just as good as any one's for half the money. Do not jump, push start or run bike with a half dead battery except in an emergency. It will kill alternator stator or the voltage regulator or both. Probably a $500 repair.

My attachment is a typical 3 phase charge system. the two phase (typically in error called single phase) has one less wire.

 

thanks for all your help. I'm not the best when it comes to things electric, but I'm learning.I'll try the crank check tomorrow. I'm starting to wonder about the battery- it's a Harley and the same one that has been in the bike since I bought it 6 or 7 years ago. I always keep it on a charger. And it always starts up.
I have to look again underneath for the wires. I swear it has only two wires. Had my hand under feelin around but didn't feel anything else. I'll take a look before work.
Thanks again for the help. I'll post back on the wires.

 

When I talk wires, I am talking how many separate copper wires. Like a house lamp has two wires. It's the battery. It's been living on maintenance charge for the last year. Put one in it. All your problems will go away. If not, you needed one anyway. These bikes are a bitch to push home.

 

You were right about the 4 wires. Once I got the bike on the lift I seen the other two wires on the other side. As far as the battery, I kept it off the charger for a day and it still read 13.4 v. I did the load test by starting the bike with the meter on the battery . I got 9.7v on startup. And that was after it sat 24hrs with no charger. I'm still getting voltage thru the regulator when it's sittin there. So I think a battery issue has nothing to do with that. So just to make sure before I order the new one, when I put the meter on the negative battery and either one of the wires from the regulator, I should have zero voltage,correct? Voltage shouldn't come thru the regulator while off. And while the bike was running I shouldn't have 15.5v at the battery like I do now,correct? Just want to ask again before I spend the $$$. Thanks again.
That is pretty long for a battery,isn't it?

 

If you are reading your AC meter correct and your meter is good and you are seeing AC voltage on the battery, your regulator is shot. I would pull the regulator. I would check the 2 wires going back to the stator with your meter using the 1x resistance to ensure that nothing going to the frame ground and also check the resistance to each other. (not sure what resistance since I do not have your manual) I personally would also put a new battery in it with my new regulator. Mine lasted 6 years but was grunting and making a bang every now and then. I replace at grunt now.