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Replaced speed sensor, still have problem

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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 10:18 PM
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Default Replaced speed sensor, still have problem

Hey all, maybe some had this problem also. My bike is a 2000 FLTRI. Last week I noticed my blinkers wouldn't cancel after a turn. Then my speedo was erratic , then stopped. So I pulled the sensor in the trans and cleaned all the shavings. Put it back together and took it for a ride. 5 minutes in the needle started going back and forth; the speedo worked , then didn't. OK, so time to replace the sensor. Put the new one in, went for a ride. Now the speedo reads too high, like at walking speed it reads 10-12mph. When you take off it shoots right up to 30-40, then say when you come to a light and stop, the needle is still coming down. Also my blinkers still won't cancel. I noticed that when I rev it in neutral up around 2500rpm the speedo reads 10-12 mph.
I was reading somewhere else that overcharging could cause problems with the speedo, blinkers, etc.. At idle with a meter on the battery I get 14.7v. On the throttle it goes over 15v. A new sensor gone bad could happen, but it's only a magnet and the wire looks fine. So I'm thinking maybe the regulator? Is 15+volts too high? Maybe I'm thinking too much but I don't want to fry the stator, or anything else. Anyone have this happen to them? Ant suggestions would help.Thanks
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 06:57 AM
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Have you checked the wiring from sensor to speedometer?
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 07:14 AM
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the sensor goes to a deutsch connector in front of the battery, then into the harness. So there is no way to visually inspect the wire. Nothing has been moved, so I'm thinking something larger is to blame.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 07:22 AM
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Always be sure to check your connection at battery first before doing anything. Then check voltage at 2000 rpm. It should be no more then 15V DC. If it's higher, sounds like the regulator may be going. Also check by flipping meter to AC and make sure your are not seeing any AC leaking thru. The stator is 3 phase AC. Not going to hurt it. Regulator keeps it in check since stator will put out a minimum at idle up to a maximum voltage at WOT RPM no matter what.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jul 29, 2014 at 07:32 AM.
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 11:08 AM
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thanks ripsaw, when you say check for AC, you mean between pos and neg on the battery? I'm getting a bit more than 15 v at idle after it runs for a minute, so leaning towards the regulator. It looks original, with about 47k on the bike. I just printed out the diagnostics from the help section, so going to test it out
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 12:15 PM
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just tested the regulator with a meter and I'm getting voltage while off. Time for a new regulator.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 01:08 PM
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One of the four lead off the regulator is hot to ground at all time. In you other question, sometime when a regulator goes bad and a diode goes (diodes only allows one way flow which changes AC to DC) it does not just short and burn out. Obvious from your voltage a burnt thru diode is not the problem. Not sure why you do not want to check at the proper RPM to get a stable reading. However, if a diode leaks, you AC meter will show voltage on the battery terminals. If there is no leakage, AC will read 0. AC can cause a lot of odd malfunctions.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jul 29, 2014 at 01:15 PM.
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 01:58 PM
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I tested the two spade connectors coming out of the regulator that are tied to the junction on the frame above the regulator. I had 15v at 1500rpm and a little higher, 15.1 around 2000rpm. I'll look at it again. Both spade connectors had voltage coming out of the regulator.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 01:59 PM
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is that with the bike running when you check for AC?
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 02:20 PM
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ok just checked the voltage- with the meter set at 20 dc, it read 15.3 at 2000rpm. Then I put it on 200 ac and it read 32v. While running.
 
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