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I need some help

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Old Mar 3, 2015 | 08:31 PM
  #1  
RoadGlide_13's Avatar
RoadGlide_13
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Default I need some help

I have a 2012 Road Glide Custom. I am having a problem that comes and goes it seems pretty random. But on hotter days like 80 and up when I have to sit for more then say 20 seconds like at a red light when I go to take off my bike seems to have a major power lose for about 3 to 7 seconds then it's fine! It idles perfect but when you rev it up if it's doing it the rpms drop roght off to idle almost instantly. Never consistent but seems to happen more when I cruise at highway speeds and then get off at a red light. I've checked my check valve in cam support plate along with all o rings and pump. Thought maybe wet sumping but doesn't make sense that it's totally random and only for a couple seconds. Last summer I went like 2 months without it happening then it did it again. I'm currently running 103 with woods tw-555 cams, dalphi lifters and comp cams adjustable push rods. Problem came after cams were put in 2 winters ago. Did mine and dad's bike together with all same parts his is perfectly fine. Been building v twins with the ol man since i was old ebough to lift a wrench. But never had this problem before. Does anyone have any idea what I can do to get rid of this BS problem? New cam plate? High flow plate and pump? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! And also I had to change my cam chain tensioner at about 23k when I checked the check valve it had ALOT of wear. It's the hydraulic tensioner which I was the understanding were suppose to last alot longer even the guy at the harley shop parts desk was very suprised! Bike currently has about 34k on her. Thanks ~Budda
 
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 07:19 AM
  #2  
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nhrider1
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From: Londonderry, NH
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Originally Posted by RoadGlide_13
I have a 2012 Road Glide Custom. I am having a problem that comes and goes it seems pretty random. But on hotter days like 80 and up when I have to sit for more then say 20 seconds like at a red light when I go to take off my bike seems to have a major power lose for about 3 to 7 seconds then it's fine! It idles perfect but when you rev it up if it's doing it the rpms drop roght off to idle almost instantly. Never consistent but seems to happen more when I cruise at highway speeds and then get off at a red light. I've checked my check valve in cam support plate along with all o rings and pump. Thought maybe wet sumping but doesn't make sense that it's totally random and only for a couple seconds. Last summer I went like 2 months without it happening then it did it again. I'm currently running 103 with woods tw-555 cams, dalphi lifters and comp cams adjustable push rods. Problem came after cams were put in 2 winters ago. Did mine and dad's bike together with all same parts his is perfectly fine. Been building v twins with the ol man since i was old ebough to lift a wrench. But never had this problem before. Does anyone have any idea what I can do to get rid of this BS problem? New cam plate? High flow plate and pump? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! And also I had to change my cam chain tensioner at about 23k when I checked the check valve it had ALOT of wear. It's the hydraulic tensioner which I was the understanding were suppose to last alot longer even the guy at the harley shop parts desk was very suprised! Bike currently has about 34k on her. Thanks ~Budda
Sounds like EITMS (Engine Idle Temperature Management System) is kicking in when the engine gets hot. It will run on one cylinder when active to help cool the engine. You can disable it if you don't like it.

What tuner are you using? You can enable/disable or set the temp threshold with some flash tuners. Since it's a new problem, maybe the tune you are using with the cams enabled the function.

Your manual should give details on enabling/disabling this function.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 08:12 AM
  #3  
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hobobiker
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From: Somewhere, PA
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Originally Posted by nhrider1
Sounds like EITMS (Engine Idle Temperature Management System) is kicking in when the engine gets hot. It will run on one cylinder when active to help cool the engine. You can disable it if you don't like it.

What tuner are you using? You can enable/disable or set the temp threshold with some flash tuners. Since it's a new problem, maybe the tune you are using with the cams enabled the function.

Your manual should give details on enabling/disabling this function.
I agree, that was the first thing that came to my mind as well. I always ask the bike owner "what has changed?" I ran into a similar issue after putting a Fuelpak on a 2009 and, living in the mountains, taking off from a stoplight going uphill really magnified the second or two of lost power...

Hobo
 
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 08:24 AM
  #4  
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Smokey Stover
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From: Florida
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You can disable EITMS and let your heads heat up to 350*,or get WARDSPARTSWERKS FCS and keep your head temps much cooler. (mine avg 235* with them on a stage 1, 96")So cool that it'll probably never come on again.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 11:11 AM
  #5  
RoadGlide_13's Avatar
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From: New London, WI
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No that's not it! I have mine shut off and besides when that's on as soon as you hit the throttle the rear cylinder fires back up this is not my problem. When I sit for a bit and go to take off I have no power if you twist the throttle it sounds like the motor is working very hard and has no pull at all last for about 5 seconds and then it's fine. When it's idling it's perfect 2 cylinders and all but if you rev it up its really unresponsive and the rpms drop right back to idle instantly
 
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