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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Thanks for the replies and support. You guys have been a lifeline! I couldn't stand it and went back into the garage yesterday and yanked it apart enough to get into the rocker boxes. Pulled out the breather assemblies and yep, they were flipped upside down. Put them in right and got it back together and test rode it in the freezing wind and all good. Yay! She is nice and quiet in the valve train, no leaks, and runs strong. The TW37 cam is a good one for a bagger I think. anyway, I like it.
I have the updated oil pump as an '07 and up would have. I have the baisley progressive spring and (mfr?) the precision ground bypass valve. The oil pressure according to the gauge is staying above 40 psi but nothing is happening adversely that I can see. I wonder if that pressure is going to cause any problems. It used to run about 20 psi at 3k rpm. I gotta check into that.
As far as the valve leak down test, I will look into doing that. Maybe the shop where I work has one that I can borrow. Would be a nice peace of mind to check it out.
And maybe I can get a minute next weekend to go for a ride up the highway long enough to see if I am going to have oil misting problems.
Will try to get a photo of the bike on here soon. I know it's not a hot rod type bike (love those too) but it's starting to be a cool looking/sounding big hunk of metal going down the highway!
I also have an old '98 dyna that is a cool bike. I plan on giving her some love this year later, once the bagger is happy.
Thanks again for all your help and tips. I hope there is something I can do to return the favor someday. And to note. I did join on here and paid my dues for a year. Want to keep this site up and running. Ride on bro's. nevadarider
I like happy endings. One last tip though, lose the Baisley spring; you don't need it with the upgraded pump. There is such a thing as too much oil pressure that will result in aeration of the oil which can lead to a noisy valve train. Ideal oil pressure with the new pump should be 12-15 at idle and 32-36 at cruise. If you wanted to make an "upgrade" to the OEM oiling system lose the spring and the relief valve and replace it with the Axtell pressure relief valve; it works as advertised.
Well, not that anyone is still interested but just in case someone else goes through this. I logged about 300 miles on the bike so far. It runs great, I loaded a map on the PCIII that the engine seems to be happy with for now. My oil pressure is still on the high side when running down the highway, at about 40 to 45 at 3k rpm. I am thinking that I am going to get a 12 point stainless engine bolt kit from alloyboltz and pull the cover after I get the bolt kit and possibly change out the baisley spring at that time. However, so far I haven't noticed any problems but then it hasn't been that hot out there lately yet, either. I'm not having any misting problems or leaks anywhere and engine temps seem normal, at this time.
I will come back to this site and leave a final message concerning this thread after I get bike broke in fully and also do whatever I should do about having higher than normal oil pressure.
Thanks again for the help from the guys that assisted. That was really awesome.
Well, not that anyone is still interested but just in case someone else goes through this. I logged about 300 miles on the bike so far. It runs great, I loaded a map on the PCIII that the engine seems to be happy with for now. My oil pressure is still on the high side when running down the highway, at about 40 to 45 at 3k rpm. I am thinking that I am going to get a 12 point stainless engine bolt kit from alloyboltz and pull the cover after I get the bolt kit and possibly change out the baisley spring at that time. However, so far I haven't noticed any problems but then it hasn't been that hot out there lately yet, either. I'm not having any misting problems or leaks anywhere and engine temps seem normal, at this time.
I will come back to this site and leave a final message concerning this thread after I get bike broke in fully and also do whatever I should do about having higher than normal oil pressure.
Thanks again for the help from the guys that assisted. That was really awesome.
Glad to hear that the motor is doing well for you. Good luck buddy!
Well now, I hove over 600 miles on the engine since doing the cam chest upgrade and 95" upgrade. The bike runs great still. The oil pressure is still on the high side at 45 psi at cruising speed. I contacted Dan Baisley about it and he said that they see the high pressures but that in all these years, he has yet to hear of any problems created by it. I read of several other guys with that pressure and they reported no problems either, "yet".
And now, I have acquired the bypass spring kit from ERT products. There are 3 springs in the kit and you can select the one that best suits your engine/needs. I haven't put one in yet but when I need to get back into something on the right side of the engine, I may do that then. The exhaust is somewhat a pain to remove by myself so I will just wait for a rainy day that affords me some time and do it. I have the easy pull clutch set-up to install too, and I will need the exhaust off to get to the clutch release cover off, so that will be the time to do it. Not to mention that I just ordered a stainless 12 point screw kit from alloyboltz and will change out all the pesky stock allen head screws for the 12 point screws on everything I can at the time. That will be the triple bonus to motivate me.
Right now I'm dealing with a one-piece inner primary bearing that is just starting to fail. I'm taking out the allballs setup (I think the bearing is imported) and putting in the Jim's USA made setup. Once all that is done and I get the other work done that I mentioned above, I'll repost as to the results, just in case someone might want to consider the info before they start a similar process on their machine.
Ride yer asses off brothers and hope ya all get from A to B in one happy healthy piece!
Right now I'm dealing with a one-piece inner primary bearing that is just starting to fail. I'm taking out the allballs setup (I think the bearing is imported) and putting in the Jim's USA made setup. Once all that is done and I get the other work done that I mentioned above, I'll repost as to the results, just in case someone might want to consider the info before they start a similar process on their machine. Ride yer asses off brothers and hope ya all get from A to B in one happy healthy piece!
I have read posts on other forum from guys that tried the one piece units and many have had issues and reverted to the OEM setup with the OEM or S&S inner race (early models only) and OEM primary bearing and seal. IIRC, the Baker unit may require "honing" the inner race of the bearing to fit properly on the early main shaft. A brake cylinder hone would work for this purpose, if the Baker fit is too tight.
Personally, I prefer the OEM setup with the OEM IPB or S&S race and the OEM bearing and seal but that's just me.
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