Engine Mechanical Topics Discussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.

Please chime in on my engine build set up

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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 08:31 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Mberlin74
Hey djl can you be a bit more specific regarding what you mean when you say head work that suits the cam? How does that differ from getting a ready to go head replacement like the one in my original post? Sorry but we're getting into an area where i'm not very knowledgeable.
I am on the fence about head work in your situation but I have to say that gtrracer's suggestion on the TTS100 cams is a good one. It's a relatively new cam that is producing some good number as a cam only upgrade in stock and Stage 1 103" motors; it's a stump puller. I believe there is now a TTS150 that gives up a bit of TQ off idle but develops more HP in the midrange and carries out past 4500. Still not clear on your goals but you could give the cams a try and if that doesn't float your boat, a velocity port job, often referred to as a "street" port job, would probably do the trick. Forget the 79cc heads; you will be opening up a can of worms. Why take on a more invasive project and spend more money than necessary if the cam upgrade satisfies?

Install the cams, get her tuned and I think you will be surprised at the results................
 
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 11:43 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Mberlin74
Hi all
Over the last couple of months I've been researching parts, companies, performance numbers etc. and trying to wrap my head around the HUGE amount of info out there. I've read a good amount of posts on this forum and have learned a lot! I've spoken to a few companies directly like S&S, Fuel Moto, Wood Performance and also Scott at Hillside Cycle. Scott a BIG thanks to you for taking the time on the phone with me last week.

I have a 2012 Heritage Softail with the following.........
S&S big bore 106” flat top pistons w/ 10.0 : 1 compression rate for my stock 85cc heads
Fuel Moto pro billet stage 1 air cleaner
CVO 255 cams
Samson Tru Dual exhaust
Dynojet Power Vision
NO HEAD WORK AT ALL AT THIS TIME

I know the exhaust is not great for helping with performance, but I'm pretty much stuck with it. I spent a $hit load getting Top Shop Hard Bags, lids, hardware, paint, and Cycle Visions brackets to make it all work with a softail. Looks great but wont allow for any other exhaust as the bags are in the way. In hind sight a Glide would have been a better choice for me but there's always next time.

Here's what i'm looking at and would love some comments or suggestions. Price wise there's only a few hundred difference.

S&S 79cc Super Stock Heads
S&S 585 chain driven EZ start cams
S&S 58mm Throttle Body
S&S pushrods and lifters

Or

Fuel Moto Level B Heads
Wood TW-555 chain driven cams
Harley 50mm Throttle Body
Wood Alpha Directional Roller Lifters
Fuel Moto Adjustable Pushrods

Any feedback would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance


First of all...kick-*** Bike you've built!

Second, although true dual fishtails are not the best pipes for making power, they are NOT a deal killer.

With some Thunder Torque Inserts in them they will produce close or better than most slip-ons.

Would a 2-1 give you more, yep, but you can still get good power out of a built motor with the TD's.

Here's a dyno chart of my 2012 Softail with True Dual Fish Tails. Only thing done to it is a good Stage I. It puts out better ride-able power than most Stage I's I see, and more than a few Stage II's I've seen.




As far as your build, I would probably NOT go with the 58mm Throttle Body, and I would go with a different air cleaner, like the 636V. If I had that on my Softail (I don't for looks reasons) I would get an extra 5-6 ft lbs & about the same extra in HP.


Here is a chart for a built Softail...below the chart is a list of what was done to get this power.




You will take a bit of a hit from the TD's, but not nearly as much as some seem to believe.

ENGINE
-Stock block 103
-Zero decked pistons
- .030" headgaskets
-T-man 577 cams
-Comp cams lifters and adjustable push rods
-2012 touring heads ported by HDSP 80cc chambers 1.9" intake valve
-Screamin Eagle Pro 50mm TB bored to 54mm by DVR
- 4.9 Injectors
-DK 636v air cleaner with oversized K&N filter
-lightened stock Rocker arms
-matched intake ports to TB
-matched air cleaner to TB mouth
-Rush Wrath 3 step exhaust 2.5" baffle
-Barnett heavy (gold) clutch spring
-Powervision Tuner


The above should get you on your way to what your looking for.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 05:58 AM
  #23  
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Just posted a carbed 103" we did, on our company Facebook.
117/124, sae.
119 plus/126 plus, actual.
Simple build..............tuned real easy.
Scott
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 07:32 AM
  #24  
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Or you could install a cam and see 100HP/110TQ..............
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 08:48 AM
  #25  
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Cyclerama 575.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 09:42 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Ed Ramberger
Also, if I were the shops that spent all the time with you then saw you asking the inter web, I'd be a little less apt to help in the future. Just my .02
Thanks to all of you for your input. It's given me lots to ponder.

I did want to comment on the post by Ed Ramburger. I do appreciate your input, but disagree on your statement regarding talking to vendors and forum members. I think the whole point of a forum is to discuss these things with others that have experience and knowledge that could help. Just like a group of friends you're talking to about a decision you're trying to make. To your point of "shops that spent time on the phone with me less likely to want to help me in the future because I asked for more opinions/advice on this forum" I think is off a bit. I get where you're coming from but if I in fact didn't post here with my original question, I could have just listened to the S&S guy and went out and spent $2500+ on stuff that most of the replies to this thread have said would be a huge waste of money. Including you. So to me that's helped immeasurably. Just my opinion.
Hopefully no one feels slighted by me asking for more opinions here. I just wanted to be as informed as possible before making such a big decision.
 

Last edited by Mberlin74; Apr 12, 2016 at 10:19 AM.
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 06:56 PM
  #27  
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After talking to Steve at TTS it looks like I'm gonna try the TTS150's. Some Smith Brothers adjustable pushrods (so I don't have to mess with the top end) and new lifters. Also may try the Thunder Torque Inserts from DK Custom. Just not too thrilled about drilling a hole in the exhaust in case I end up not liking them. I'll save the rest of the mods for when I (hopefully one day) get my glide.

I'd love some suggestions on lifters. I've heard that a lifter is a lifter whether you pay $50 for a set or $200. I've also heard the complete opposite. Would love some input on that.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 08:21 PM
  #28  
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You cannot make a mistake by using S&S lifters.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 08:51 PM
  #29  
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I was looking at their Premium High Performance lifters. IS that overkill? They're pricey. What about the HL2T kit they sell. They claim a slight HP gain and easier starts for non EZ start cams. Do you have any experience with that?
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 09:07 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Mberlin74
After talking to Steve at TTS it looks like I'm gonna try the TTS150's. Some Smith Brothers adjustable pushrods (so I don't have to mess with the top end) and new lifters. Also may try the Thunder Torque Inserts from DK Custom. Just not too thrilled about drilling a hole in the exhaust in case I end up not liking them. I'll save the rest of the mods for when I (hopefully one day) get my glide.

I'd love some suggestions on lifters. I've heard that a lifter is a lifter whether you pay $50 for a set or $200. I've also heard the complete opposite. Would love some input on that.
I think you will be over the moon with that cam and a good tune. Are those pipes baffled? If so, a baffle replacement might help those pipes. Nothing wrong with the Smith Brothers pushrods but they are a pain to adjust; not a problem for you if you are not doing the work. However the SE Tapered Quick Adjustable push rod kit (PN 18404-08)are easier to adjust and adequate for the job; kit includes pushrods, tubes, clips and O-rings for about $135 IIRC. No need for the S&S Premium lifters or the HL2T travel limiter kit; their standard lifter will work just fine.
 
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