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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
I've read in many threads that once the engine gets overheated beyond a certain point the rear cylinder cuts out.
I'm wondering when this generally happens and is it pretty obvious? Does it sound completely different, feel completely different?
I have fans and oil cooler on my bike but the summers here are regularly 115 degrees plus. Engine temp when ambient temps are 100-103 still get to 300 or so, with traffic and such. Can't imagine 115, On those days I probably won't be riding much (the wind feels like a blast furnace), but when I do I'm wondering if I should keep to short rides or rides where I'm heading out of the desert and into the mountains, San Diego, etc.
Didn't you say that your ccp was like 210. With that high heat and compression i don't think i would even consider riding. detonation can really do a number on your motor...
That all depends if your bike has the EITMS system on it. Most models in the Dyna line-up are not equipped with it. I believe that it's standard on all the Touring models.
That all depends if your bike has the EITMS system on it. Most models in the Dyna line-up are not equipped with it. I believe that it's standard on all the Touring models.
That EITMS system, does that work on the same theory as a knock sensor circuit Used on cars in the eighties? Takes timing out?
My bike has EITMS on it - and it is set to cut in at an engine temperature of 175C (350F).
It works in three stages (according to the notes in my Powervision tunes)
Mode 1: AFR enrichment - Mode 1 will be activated if engine temp is greater than "x" and RPM is less than 1200
Mode 2: Skip Fire - Mode 2 only activates if Mode 1 is already active AND the vehicle temperature exceeds "y" AND the vehicle speed is less than 1-2Kph
These are the main modes, but there is also a newer Mode 3 revealed in newer Powervision tunes. The notes say:
Mode 3: Mode 3 attempts to change spark and idle speed to protect a hot engine at low speed. Once the vehicle gets below this speed (and other conditions are met) Mode 3 protection enables.
Power vision let's you set the relevant temperatures for Mode 1 and Mode 2, plus the temperature and speed for Mode 3.
And to Robby's question - yes it's very noticeable. It comes on if you are stuck in traffic on a hot day. The rear cylinder cuts out, so the idle sounds much lower speed and more lumpy....
(EDIT: I think ALL Dynas have it now - not sure what year this came in, but my 2014 Dyna manual says it's standard)
Didn't you say that your ccp was like 210. With that high heat and compression i don't think i would even consider riding. detonation can really do a number on your motor...
Compression was 190 and 195, not sure if that makes any difference.
Originally Posted by adm
My bike has EITMS on it - and it is set to cut in at an engine temperature of 175C (350F).
It works in three stages (according to the notes in my Powervision tunes)
Mode 1: AFR enrichment - Mode 1 will be activated if engine temp is greater than "x" and RPM is less than 1200
Mode 2: Skip Fire - Mode 2 only activates if Mode 1 is already active AND the vehicle temperature exceeds "y" AND the vehicle speed is less than 1-2Kph
These are the main modes, but there is also a newer Mode 3 revealed in newer Powervision tunes. The notes say:
Mode 3: Mode 3 attempts to change spark and idle speed to protect a hot engine at low speed. Once the vehicle gets below this speed (and other conditions are met) Mode 3 protection enables.
Power vision let's you set the relevant temperatures for Mode 1 and Mode 2, plus the temperature and speed for Mode 3.
And to Robby's question - yes it's very noticeable. It comes on if you are stuck in traffic on a hot day. The rear cylinder cuts out, so the idle sounds much lower speed and more lumpy....
(EDIT: I think ALL Dynas have it now - not sure what year this came in, but my 2014 Dyna manual says it's standard)
Got it thanks! I'll check how mine is set when I get home.
If you want to be sure, cool down the bike, start it and remove the rear plug connector, if the sound changes to the same as you're experiencing, that's it.
...And to Robby's question - yes it's very noticeable. It comes on if you are stuck in traffic on a hot day. The rear cylinder cuts out, so the idle sounds much lower speed and more lumpy....
Always back to the same question..."One lump or Two?
So ultimately this only happens at idle and not when riding?
Just took a look, mine was set to come on when engine hit 284 degrees F. I raised it to 340 degrees. I don't think it was causing any grief but my engine does get to 285 pretty often!
Last edited by robbyville; May 18, 2016 at 11:56 PM.
Once you twist he throttle while the EITMS is in operation while stopped, it immediately goes back to normal operation. It should never kick on while you're under power.
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