Thoughts on S&S Cycle 124 in. Hot Set Up Kits with Heads
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: deland,florida
A+on this.a 124" built right will have good depenabilty in pretty much any configuration.we do 124"`s from very mild to very aggressive, (my personal bike is one of the very mild ones because I actually tour on it,10.0-1,S&S .570,129/136).the big thing is not to chase #`s,but to build a motor you`ll be happy with,most guys have never rode a 130/130+ bike and really don't need anymore except for bragging rights.in the 10.5-1 area is as high as we like to see on bikes that will see real touring (99% of cams that want more than that don't lend themselves to touring anyway,RPM wise)
Last edited by prodrag1320; Jul 7, 2016 at 08:09 AM.
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Joined: Dec 2007
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Have a client in Syracuse that has a .640 in a 124" that has well over 130,000 miles on that engine............almost 200,000 on the chassis.
He uses the power to pass cars, climb hills, etc, fully loaded when he tours.
Scott
He uses the power to pass cars, climb hills, etc, fully loaded when he tours.
Scott
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Illinois
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,923
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From: Alorton, Illinois
I agree. The 640 at 11.4-11.5 is perfect for a 124 for many miles. This gives great manageable power down low and great power when the rpms are up. Easy to tune with out pms and good low end manners.
Easy to achieve with a head shave and pistons that come with the kit.
Easy to achieve with a head shave and pistons that come with the kit.
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 714
Likes: 120
A+on this.a 124" built right will have good depenabilty in pretty much any configuration.we do 124"`s from very mild to very aggressive, (my personal bike is one of the very mild ones because I actually tour on it,10.0-1,S&S .570,129/136).the big thing is not to chase #`s,but to build a motor you`ll be happy with,most guys have never rode a 130/130+ bike and really don't need anymore except for bragging rights.in the 10.5-1 area is as high as we like to see on bikes that will see real touring (99% of cams that want more than that don't lend themselves to touring anyway,RPM wise)
Build for the real world and how and where you ride most of the time.
Build it right...(I like to start like a building-bottom to top) and you will get many thousands of stress free, enjoyable miles. You don't tour or ride a dyno sheet (although some posers still like to laminate their dyno sheets and show them to their buddies..lol...).
Build it right, build for your goals, and build it to last-
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,569
Likes: 624
From: deland,florida
very true,but I feel for many riders who get talked into what they want instead of having a build done to what they actually will be happy with.im sure scott has ran into the same as we have on many occasions of "fixing" a build that the customer is not happy with at all (weather its putting out good #`s or not)rule #1 is,do your homework,really look into what your going to want in the end and find a builder that's willing to listen instead of just building what they think is best
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My riding style completely changed when I went from 88" to 95" to 107" to 124".
I bet that most of the unhappy people were expecting to hop on the bike after the mods and use their muscle memory like before. There is a learning curve when going bigger in the HP/TQ department.
I bet that most of the unhappy people were expecting to hop on the bike after the mods and use their muscle memory like before. There is a learning curve when going bigger in the HP/TQ department.
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2009
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Likes: 120
If building for big HP, as in my hot rod street bike, the best way is scratch built, top to bottom, using the best parts available. That way, it will stay in one piece, hole shot after hole shot and can be spun up anytime as needed.
Build based on what the bike and rider are going to be doing-hot rod, tourer, all around crate, mild modified, etc., requires a specific goal for what the rider is trying to accomplish.