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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 09:43 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by hrdtail78
Stock heads are limited to about 100hp. The 555tq is a great low end grunt cam that doesn't fall off. You two probably aren't too far off from each other. I would suggest headwork and a TB. It will help the 600 grow legs and carry out on top end.
I was starting to look for a 58mm SE Since I don't have to transfer parts over or send mine out I missed one on ebay with injectors for $300 about two months ago. I did notice the power seems to fall off about 5300 So I'm guessing it must be running out of air and its not the cam since TR told me the 600 would pull to 6000+ like a train haha which don't get me wrong it pulls hard but I feel it should have some more ***** up top.

Anyone know where I can get a decent 58mm I can get a new one with injectors for about $450
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by garett742
What is the average cost of a 117 with machine, crank work and timken bearing, cams and lifters I have decent lifters but I don't think they could handle anymore then what I have now. I would like to keep a stock looking cylinder so no one knows.
I would think that if you are doing the work yourself, you are looking at $3000, mas o menus.

Originally Posted by garrett742
No I did them myself I've ported a lot of motocross heads so I just did a quick port polish rounded the valve guides and port matched intake and exhaust along with the T in the TB smoothed everything out in there.
Get the heads properly ported. A good porter would have to look at what you have done and may suggest starting over with a new set of cores which can be had on Ebay for $150-$200. I think you will understand when you see the baseline numbers; your heads are holding you back. Check out Dan Vance's throttle body boring modification.

Originally Posted by garrett742
If you were to do it again would you stay 107 or go 110 drop in or do a 117 along with all the extras that go along with it?! I plan on having the bike another couple of years at least if not for awhile since its one of the last years of the twin cam, so Ill probably keep it forever
Without a doubt, 124" built on my OEM cases. The all bore 107" is a stout motor and it runs so good, I can' t justify tearing it down for more displacement but, like you, I don't plan on getting rid of the bike; too much sweat, blood and money in it to give it away but one of these days, I will build that 124". I have upgraded the suspension front and rear, replaced the 16" wheels with 18" wheels and collecting parts to upgrade brakes, front and rear, to the HD wannabe Brembos. Once done with that, I will be contemplating the 124" upgrade.......
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 09:59 AM
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You'd pick up power with a set of good heads, also.
Scott
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 10:41 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by djl
I would think that if you are doing the work yourself, you are looking at $3000, mas o menus.


That doesn't seem to bad. I would do all the work besides the crank, heads and case boring.


Get the heads properly ported. A good porter would have to look at what you have done and may suggest starting over with a new set of cores which can be had on Ebay for $150-$200. I think you will understand when you see the baseline numbers; your heads are holding you back. Check out Dan Vance's throttle body boring modification.

My heads should be fine I didn't take tons of material out I wish I would have taken pictures to share I only took them of the TB which I will post a little later and you can see I'm pretty decent but no pro with years and years of experience.

Without a doubt, 124" built on my OEM cases. The all bore 107" is a stout motor and it runs so good, I can' t justify tearing it down for more displacement but, like you, I don't plan on getting rid of the bike; too much sweat, blood and money in it to give it away but one of these days, I will build that 124". I have upgraded the suspension front and rear, replaced the 16" wheels with 18" wheels and collecting parts to upgrade brakes, front and rear, to the HD wannabe Brembos. Once done with that, I will be contemplating the 124" upgrade.......
124 is a 4 5/8 stroke and 4.125 bore right? I could have longer rods put on my crank when I have everything done couldn't I? Then 117 goes to a 124. I ride really hard and I am going to be going across country this next summer you think it would be decent on fuel and reliability?

Originally Posted by Hillsidecycle.com
You'd pick up power with a set of good heads, also.
Scott
I should probably wait till I decide what route to go shouldn't I? A set of heads that is good for a 103/107 wont be good for a 117/124 and vise versa correct?

Also would a 58mm TB be good for a 117/124 or would I need something even bigger?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by garett742


I should probably wait till I decide what route to go shouldn't I?



Also would a 58mm TB be good for a 117/124 or would I need something even bigger?

I would take your advice. Get a game plan and get your ducks in a row and then execute. I believe this to be cheaper and less of a headache. Rod length isn't more stroke.


I have seen the HPI 58 support 160hp SAE. This is a cable TB and we decided on the small side for street manners. Not as big of a concern with TBW but still needs to be considered. For example. The S&S 66 is bigger but I haven't seen the size be a benefit.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by garett742
124 is a 4 5/8 stroke and 4.125 bore right? I could have longer rods put on my crank when I have everything done couldn't I? Then 117 goes to a 124. I ride really hard and I am going to be going across country this next summer you think it would be decent on fuel and reliability?
Yup, 4.625 x 4.125 is 124". However, rods are the same length the additional displacement comes from the longer stroke. Keep compression reasonable, avoid extreme high lift cams, get a good tune and there should not be any reliability issues. Of course, a 124" motor is going to consume a bit more fuel but that is to be expected.



Originally Posted by garrett742
I should probably wait till I decide what route to go shouldn't I? A set of heads that is good for a 103/107 wont be good for a 117/124 and vise versa correct? Also would a 58mm TB be good for a 117/124 or would I need something even bigger?
I think Scott will agree that of course, you should make a decision, develop a plan and then execute the plan avoiding changes mid stream. Head work will be dictated by cam selection and desired compression; not dictated by displacement. In other words, one would very likely run different cams in a 124 vice a 103 which would require different head work.

Your TBW throttle body cannot be worked, I don't think. Dan Vance uses S&S and HPI castings and OEM parts to make T/Bs from 58mm to 70mm. I will leave the evaluation of the T/B size to the experts I would go a bit larger, say 62/64mm.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 12:07 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by hrdtail78
I would take your advice. Get a game plan and get your ducks in a row and then execute. I believe this to be cheaper and less of a headache. Rod length isn't more stroke.

I have seen the HPI 58 support 160hp SAE. This is a cable TB and we decided on the small side for street manners. Not as big of a concern with TBW but still needs to be considered. For example. The S&S 66 is bigger but I haven't seen the size be a benefit.
Yeah I think I will start pricing some stuff out here shortly.

Yeah wow I was having a bit of a brain fart there for the rod haha

Originally Posted by djl
Yup, 4.625 x 4.125 is 124". However, rods are the same length the additional displacement comes from the longer stroke. Keep compression reasonable, avoid extreme high lift cams, get a good tune and there should not be any reliability issues. Of course, a 124" motor is going to consume a bit more fuel but that is to be expected.

Yeah I know it will use more fuel but I'm just hoping to get in the upper 30s cruising



I think Scott will agree that of course, you should make a decision, develop a plan and then execute the plan avoiding changes mid stream. Head work will be dictated by cam selection and desired compression; not dictated by displacement. In other words, one would very likely run different cams in a 124 vice a 103 which would require different head work.

Your TBW throttle body cannot be worked, I don't think. Dan Vance uses S&S and HPI castings and OEM parts to make T/Bs from 58mm to 70mm. I will leave the evaluation of the T/B size to the experts I would go a bit larger, say 62/64mm.
Yeah I've read that before that the SE are cast to thin to be bored out any. Seems I have some choices to start making.
 

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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 01:48 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by garett742
124 is a 4 5/8 stroke and 4.125 bore right? I could have longer rods put on my crank when I have everything done couldn't I? Then 117 goes to a 124. I ride really hard and I am going to be going across country this next summer you think it would be decent on fuel and reliability?



I should probably wait till I decide what route to go shouldn't I? A set of heads that is good for a 103/107 wont be good for a 117/124 and vise versa correct?

Also would a 58mm TB be good for a 117/124 or would I need something even bigger?
Good plan.
We use a lot 66mm S&S Throttle Hogs here.
Scott
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 02:11 PM
  #19  
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You want to smoke your buddy for a couple hundred bucks invest in a Rivera Game Changer(comp sprocket) and he will wonder wtf you did
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 05:10 PM
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Nothing worse than your buddy smoking your ***- and you, he, and all his and your buddies know it. Screw that.
This needs to be corrected, so don't be nickel and dime and be cheap about it. Invest in some good HP and right this wrong.
Some good suggestions here, but keep in mind, there will always be someone faster than you. Always.
 
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