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Old Apr 11, 2017 | 11:09 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by djl
There is lots of information available on how to vent the head breathers. If you have the original OEM air box setup, it would be best to toss it and replace it with a new backing plate drilled and tapped for a couple of barbed fittings, install new hoses and route them to a "T" fitting and run a single hose out to the right side of the bike and terminate the singe hose about where the swing arm pivot shaft is located. Zip tie the hose to the frame. Some use a catch can at the end of the single hose to catch whatever the breathers collect. Doherty and other vendors offer kits for this purpose. Check the attachments and you will get the idea.

You need to know the chamber volume of the heads. If the porter is suggesting .040" head gaskets, he should know the chamber volume.

Don't waste your money on a Mikuni. The CV is a good carburetor and the tiny gain on top end a Mik will provide is not worth the cost, IMHO. The throttle response from a Mikuni is quicker because it is cable operated vis vacuum operated like the CV. Some feel the quicker throttle response of the Mik equates to better performance but the dyno will show that isn't necessarily true. I have a comparison somewhere that I will post when I find it.

The DTT adjustable ignition is a worthwhile upgrade.
I am running a stage 1 arlen ness big sucker intake. From the attached images drilling and tapping the backing plate looks like something I can easily do to vent the heads. Thanks for that!

I've heard the same about the Mikunis. I was told that a CV carb will tune just as well if not better than the Mikuni. My old carb is kind of dull in the finish where I thought i'd get a Mikuni to "upgrade" but I might just clean mine up and run it.

Ignition was just ordered, glad that was an easy decision and supported of.

Attached is the flow sheet of the heads I have an builder info.

Appreciate your assistance djl!

-Fernando
 
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Old Apr 11, 2017 | 04:31 PM
  #22  
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Hard to read the flow data but if I am reading it correctly, the heads flow well. I have seen higher flow data but have to mistrust most flow data as those heads could be flow tested on a different bench and produce different results. That said, those heads should feed your 95" motor just fine; I would still be looking at aftermarket cams.

Are you sure the Ross pistons are flat tops? Can you post a photo? I am using my compression calculator and the .026" cut indicated on the flow sheet which is about 3.7cc and a -1.5 piston dome volume for an HD flat top piston and cannot replicate the 9.8 static the head porter indicates in the flow data sheet.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2017 | 04:41 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by djl
Hard to read the flow data but if I am reading it correctly, the heads flow well. I have seen higher flow data but have to mistrust most flow data as those heads could be flow tested on a different bench and produce different results. That said, those heads should feed your 95" motor just fine; I would still be looking at aftermarket cams.

Are you sure the Ross pistons are flat tops? Can you post a photo? I am using my compression calculator and the .026" cut indicated on the flow sheet which is about 3.7cc and a -1.5 piston dome volume for an HD flat top piston and cannot replicate the 9.8 static the head porter indicates in the flow data sheet.
Sorry, that was a bad picture.

Here is a larger one.


The pistons are flat top, I will take a photo and post when I get home.

Thanks again!
 
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Old Apr 12, 2017 | 09:28 AM
  #24  
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Here are the pistons I will use.




 
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Old Apr 12, 2017 | 09:56 AM
  #25  
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Those pistons are not HD pistons and the valve reliefs appear to be larger and deeper than the factory pistons which have a negative dome volume of -1.5. I suspect that those Ross pistons may have a larger dome volume, like -2.0 to -3.0 which affects (lowers) static compression. I just can't replicate the head porters compression numbers based on a .026" cut, 3.875" bore and even a -1.5 dome volume. It is important to be able to setup the compression accurately when building a motor, particularly when it comes to cam selection. Highest I can get is 9.65 and with the SE251 cam, that won't work very well which means you should be looking at aftermarket cams like the Andrews 48. Maybe I am missing something, just don't know but I really think you should dig into the compression issue and sort it out before completing the build.

I also noticed that valve sizes in the heads are 1.850" and 1.575 and it is typical of most porters I know to go with 1.9"/1.6" valve combination. Not throwing rocks, just pointing out a detail; the smaller valve would indicate that the porter subscribes to "velocity" porting.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2017 | 11:33 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by djl
Those pistons are not HD pistons and the valve reliefs appear to be larger and deeper than the factory pistons which have a negative dome volume of -1.5. I suspect that those Ross pistons may have a larger dome volume, like -2.0 to -3.0 which affects (lowers) static compression. I just can't replicate the head porters compression numbers based on a .026" cut, 3.875" bore and even a -1.5 dome volume. It is important to be able to setup the compression accurately when building a motor, particularly when it comes to cam selection. Highest I can get is 9.65 and with the SE251 cam, that won't work very well which means you should be looking at aftermarket cams like the Andrews 48. Maybe I am missing something, just don't know but I really think you should dig into the compression issue and sort it out before completing the build.

I also noticed that valve sizes in the heads are 1.850" and 1.575 and it is typical of most porters I know to go with 1.9"/1.6" valve combination. Not throwing rocks, just pointing out a detail; the smaller valve would indicate that the porter subscribes to "velocity" porting.
I really appreciate all your knowledge! Great to know before all is buttoned back up. I doubt I can return the top end kit as its about 3 months old and just didnt get to installing until now.

Sounds like I might need a larger cam. If my gear drive S&S 510's are not going to get the compression where it should be, which cam should I swap out for? Something affordable hopefully and that would work with my gear set up as I no longer have the stock cam chain and sprockets.

When I chose this kit I called and spoke to the guy and told him exactly what I had and he said this kit would work awesome. I'm a little worries now.

Here are pics of the heads





 

Last edited by SJ_FXD; Apr 12, 2017 at 11:53 AM.
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Old Apr 12, 2017 | 01:39 PM
  #27  
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Not dissing the heads; the work looks good and they should work well with the 95" kit. I would suggest that you all the head porter and find out what the max lift the valve springs will accommodate; good information to have for future reference.

The Andrews 48 would be perfect IMHO but unfortunately it is not available in gear drive. The 510 cams wouldn't be that bad in the 95" configuration with a .030" head gasket but would do a bit better with a bit higher CCP. As it stands, CCP with the 510 cams would be about 183psi (sea level) and getting CCP up above 190psi will help a bit; however, running the 510s will make a nice running build.

If you were shooting for perfection, you have a couple of options to increase CCP and retain the 510 cams:

1. Take another .026" cut on the heads to set CCP at 190+
2. Install the 510 cams advanced 4* by using a 4* advance pinion sprocket which will set CCP just under 190psi.

There is a cost associated with each of the above options but, IMHO, the cost is not worth the marginal increase in performance but that is a personal call, not my decision to make but I, in your situation, I probably would install the 95" kit, use a .030" head gasket, install the 510 cams. Finding a competent tuner that has tuned carbed motors will be more important than increasing CCP a few points.

BTW, just wanted confirm a couple of things. Does the 95" kit include pistons and cylinders or are you having your cylinders bored/honed to fit the new pistons? Just want to be sure that the pistons are for '99-'06 motors and not "stroker" pistons for '07 up motors; pin location is different. What model year are the heads from? If '07 up, you will need '06 up intake flanges ( PN 26993-06) to fit your early intake manifold properly.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2017 | 04:36 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by djl
Not dissing the heads; the work looks good and they should work well with the 95" kit. I would suggest that you all the head porter and find out what the max lift the valve springs will accommodate; good information to have for future reference.

The Andrews 48 would be perfect IMHO but unfortunately it is not available in gear drive. The 510 cams wouldn't be that bad in the 95" configuration with a .030" head gasket but would do a bit better with a bit higher CCP. As it stands, CCP with the 510 cams would be about 183psi (sea level) and getting CCP up above 190psi will help a bit; however, running the 510s will make a nice running build.

If you were shooting for perfection, you have a couple of options to increase CCP and retain the 510 cams:

1. Take another .026" cut on the heads to set CCP at 190+
2. Install the 510 cams advanced 4* by using a 4* advance pinion sprocket which will set CCP just under 190psi.

There is a cost associated with each of the above options but, IMHO, the cost is not worth the marginal increase in performance but that is a personal call, not my decision to make but I, in your situation, I probably would install the 95" kit, use a .030" head gasket, install the 510 cams. Finding a competent tuner that has tuned carbed motors will be more important than increasing CCP a few points.

BTW, just wanted confirm a couple of things. Does the 95" kit include pistons and cylinders or are you having your cylinders bored/honed to fit the new pistons? Just want to be sure that the pistons are for '99-'06 motors and not "stroker" pistons for '07 up motors; pin location is different. What model year are the heads from? If '07 up, you will need '06 up intake flanges ( PN 26993-06) to fit your early intake manifold properly.
Good to know what I have can make a good runner. I will look into ordering a 0.30 head gasket to throw on. There is a local well known tuner here in my area that I plan on taking the bike to. RC Cycles in Hayward has a great rep.

The 95" kit did include new bored/hone cylinders for the included 95" pistons. The kit was said to bolt on to 99-05 TC motors for a bump to 95" from 88" as well as the heads being the later style so I can retain my current mani flanges.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2017 | 04:52 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by SJ_FXD
Good to know what I have can make a good runner. I will look into ordering a 0.30 head gasket to throw on. There is a local well known tuner here in my area that I plan on taking the bike to. RC Cycles in Hayward has a great rep.

The 95" kit did include new bored/hone cylinders for the included 95" pistons. The kit was said to bolt on to 99-05 TC motors for a bump to 95" from 88" as well as the heads being the later style so I can retain my current mani flanges.
Sounds like a plan. If you intake flanges are '02 and the heads are '07 up, you will need '07 up intake flanges; maybe I misunderstood. In any event, you should be happy with the results; let us know how it turns out. A set of S&S premium lifters should fix the lifter problem; keeping fingers crossed.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2017 | 04:13 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by djl
Sounds like a plan. If you intake flanges are '02 and the heads are '07 up, you will need '07 up intake flanges; maybe I misunderstood. In any event, you should be happy with the results; let us know how it turns out. A set of S&S premium lifters should fix the lifter problem; keeping fingers crossed.
My flanges are 02 now, the heads are the 05-99 so I think I may be ok

I have a set of fueling street lifters for the build.

I was able to tear down a bit more and got into the cam chest. The inner and outer bearings were good but will be replaced. The oil pump, cam gears and cams themselves were good as well.



 
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