I didn't think so.


The bores feel fine, I dont feel scratching or see marring thats whats gots me stumped on the lifters.

 

I was able to pull the oil pan over the weekend to check if I saw any debri or metal shavings inside and I didn't see anything out of the norm. Looks good to me! (baffle is to the side, I removed it to take a photo of the full pan)

 

Normally a top end would no require a rebuild with only 40K miles. What was wrong with the motor that forced the decision to rebuild? Was oil consumption excessive? Was a compression and/or a leak down test performed? Was the motor making terrible noises? In post #4, you refer to "their findings"; what were they? Aside from the lifter scoring, what other problems are there?

You might consider getting online and requesting an oil sample kit from Blackstone and sending in an oil sample for analysis.

 

I wanted to do a "before the riding season upgrade" which was a bolt on 95" top end. I called a local shop and asked them to gap the rings and set them on the pistons inside barrels for me. When the went to remove the old pistons they saw the stock pistons and the minor scoring which they decided to look at the lifters and found them as mentioned.
I was then told it wasn't recommended i put the new top end on and suggested I find the source of the problem.



I did do a compression test before all of this and got normal numbers I'd say.

 

If running the OEM head gasket, compression looks good; my calculator shows it should be about 154psi at sea level. Piston looks fine except for the carbon build up; vent the heads to the atmosphere with your next build to mitigate against carbon buildup.

If you have the tools, check the lifter bore to lifter fitment; if fitment is within service limits, rebuild the top end and replace the lifters. Check crank run out for future reference; if it is way out, you should revert to the OEM chain drive setup. Unless you know the chamber volume of the heads, I would check that as well to know what you are dealing with. Chambers need to be 78-80cc to get the most out of those 510 cams and a .030" head gasket as well.

Unless you know the history of the 95" pistons/cylinders, it would be worthwhile to check fitment in torque plates. You may have all this data already but if not, it would be worthwhile to verify everything so you know what you are building. JMHO.

 

Thanks for your reply, djl!

OEM head gasket was what came off. To vent the heads to the atmosphere what would I need to do/how would I?

I will have the run out checked and see what I find. I have a flow sheet of the heads at home that I can post later. The head builder did recommend i run 0.40 gaskets with this set up. The pistons are 95" stock bore flat tops from Ross.

I plan on also getting a mikuni and dynatek adjust ignition.

 

There is lots of information available on how to vent the head breathers. If you have the original OEM air box setup, it would be best to toss it and replace it with a new backing plate drilled and tapped for a couple of barbed fittings, install new hoses and route them to a "T" fitting and run a single hose out to the right side of the bike and terminate the singe hose about where the swing arm pivot shaft is located. Zip tie the hose to the frame. Some use a catch can at the end of the single hose to catch whatever the breathers collect. Doherty and other vendors offer kits for this purpose. Check the attachments and you will get the idea.

You need to know the chamber volume of the heads. If the porter is suggesting .040" head gaskets, he should know the chamber volume.

Don't waste your money on a Mikuni. The CV is a good carburetor and the tiny gain on top end a Mik will provide is not worth the cost, IMHO. The throttle response from a Mikuni is quicker because it is cable operated vis vacuum operated like the CV. Some feel the quicker throttle response of the Mik equates to better performance but the dyno will show that isn't necessarily true. I have a comparison somewhere that I will post when I find it.

The DTT adjustable ignition is a worthwhile upgrade.

 

Hey guys,, so I'm in the process of a project on my 2006 street glide. To start off with, it's an 88". I got my hands on a se 1550 - 95 inch big bore kit with 103 high compression heads as well as a se 251 cam and se adjustable push rods. This is my first build to do. I have close connections with the Harley shop here in my home town so they have been giving me some guidance with the smaller parts to finish it. But I'm still in need of heads. Originally I was goin to go with se heads but I was also informed that I could take my stock heads and send them off to have them ported out to fit the lift my bike will have. I'm kind of stuck here. Just need a little bit of guidance to know what are my options are. Much appreciated guys.

 

Since the lifter bores look and feel fine I would take it somewhere else to get a second opinion. Something doesn't smell right to me.

 

It would be smarter to start a new thread on your build options; you will get much better response than you will from hi-jacking another forum members thread.

A part number on the heads would help. "103 high compression heads" doesn't tell us much other than that they will bolt on; however, you really need to know more about those heads before just bolting them on. You could also do better with a cam selected from the aftermarket or have the heads worked and decked to bump the compression up with those cams.