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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
First off hello from southern MS. New to being active in forum so bare with me here!
From what I gather on here is if goin into engine I should def upgrade cam system. That being said I cant seem to gather the full "scoop" on one particular upgrade. Little run down on what we've got goin on I've got a 06 electra glide with approx. 16k miles. Currently only thing on bike is 4" bomber exhaust, big sucker air and fuelpak. Looking at doin upgrade to SE 95 BB, Andrews 26, port and polish heads, and Samson caliber TD. From what I can tell looks like goin with the gear drive cams is the way to go. Question is what all does that entail? Do I need to change pump? Plate? ETC. I am borderline ignorant on the situation. Or is there another option that's worth considering? Would like to do it all at once but at the same time 1st childs less than a month away so needless to say I'm ballin on a budget! If anyone could shed a little light my way I'd sure preciate it! Thanks!
Kids are expensive. You may want to wait and see, before blowing money on mods. I am very happy with my SE Cam Chain Tensioner and Oil Pump Upgrade. My '03 has a Stage One and I'm not adding other mods unless my engine needs a top end.
Check cam crank run out before buying gear driven cams. If less than .003", proceed; some run at .004" but .003" is the generally accepted max run out for gear driven cams. No need to replace the OEM cam plate or pump if both are in good condition. Baisley pressure relief valve spring is cheap and worth installing in the OEM cam plate; polish up the relief valve while it's out. Replace the inner cam bearings with full compliment bearing Torrington/Timken/Nachi B148s and replace outer cam bearings; remember, the OEM rear roller bearing is replaced with a ball bearing for gear drive cams. Set compression about 9.6-9.8 with the 26 cams and tune as best you can with the Fuel Pak. Can't comment on the exhaust, could help or hurt.
Ha yeh she'll be took care of, just sheddin one toy to fund another. Long as it doesn't come out of pocket I'm in the green! So your saying you just went with the hydraulic cam chain tensioner plate upgrade? Part Number 25284-11
And just go with hydraulic cams? Unless of course I find anything concerning when I get in there. Also when complete I plan on getting tuned as well.
djl, did you mean crank runnout? I know anything past 2003 needs to have the crank runnout checked as that's when Harley changed the cranks and tolerances. I'm running Andrews 21G cams with ported heads and larger valves and it's a stump puller and with the porting it runs all the way to redline. Even when pulling my trailer in the mountains I rarely need to down shift at speed. 108 ft./lbs. of torque!
Ha yeh she'll be took care of, just sheddin one toy to fund another. Long as it doesn't come out of pocket I'm in the green! So your saying you just went with the hydraulic cam chain tensioner plate upgrade? Part Number 25284-11. And just go with hydraulic cams? Unless of course I find anything concerning when I get in there. Also when complete I plan on getting tuned as well.
Thanks for info
No, not what I said. Retain the OEM cam plate and oil pump, no need for 25284-11 unless money is just burning a hole in your pocket. Replace inner and outer cam bearings; upgrade inner cam bearings to B148s; have heads worked to match the 26 cams, get her tuned and your done. If money is not a an issue, spend the $$ you would have spent on 25284-11 on a fuel management system like the Power Vision and a dyno tune. Sell the Dobeck unit on Ebay; popular and should go fast. I would also suggest a set of 1.7 ratio rockers as well to help out the 26 cams.
1.7 are nice but not gonna get you much with the 26`s now if a Tman 590 for example then yes you`ll get more bang outta the engine. Certain years were pretty sloppy on the crank RO - 06`s & 07`s in particular - don't forget HD imo really cheapened the cranks after 02 & the later year TC`s were worse - just do your home work thoroughly!
Most & I'm included would suggest the roller chain (check other forums) over Gear drives- Gears are nice............BUT!
As well if you`re doing the BB - then you would strongly want to consider the upgraded oil pump. as said change inner bearings - torringtons B148`s, the TC`s will perform good with the dobeck (piggyback tuner) as with any other tuner - unless you want to play with things & the 88`s ECM - Injector set up is only going to do so much.
Save the money for the roller chain setup and upgraded oil pump and spend it on a better tuner and dyno tune. The 1.7 rockers will help the 26 cams and the gain can be measured on the dyno if tested. I have run gears with the early OEM pump and plate on several BB motors with no issues. One of them is one of my bikes with 25K+ miles on a '05 softail with one of those "cheapened" cranks at .0025" TIR; makes 104TQ/96HP and I ride it hard. Getting ready to take that motor from 95" to 98", replace the 44G cams with Crane 296-2G cams, replace the BigBoys heads with a set of Pro Streets from Dorfman, bump CP from 190psi to 200psi but will run the same OEM cam plate and pump; believe me, it's up to the task. Run gears if you can but if you can't save yourself some $$ and run the early chain on a set of CYCO tensioners. I would pay attention to the chain rotation and reinstall it so that it rotates in the same direction as it was before removal.
Any crank can be tweaked; mine could go tomorrow but changing to a roller chain setup and an upgraded oil pump would not prevent that from happening.
First off - let me preface my response to some of the internet fodder that is slung on these sites - any one who says to keep your OEM cam chest & oil pump on an 11 year old scoot that you want to cam up & put a BB kit on has polished his relief valve one too many times...............! Just ask your self why the mother ship provides up grades? & yeah save your money on the important stuff & get a tuner with a dyno tune.....laughable
Save the money for the roller chain setup and upgraded oil pump and spend it on a better tuner and dyno tune
you mean the set up HD went to because the OEM original cam plate/oil pump set up was junk - along with the spring loaded tensioners? Dyno tune? - yep a laboratory baseline in a controlled setting of 68 to 72 degrees that will spit out a graph of numbers so you can look cool & flaunt it to everybody to gain acceptance as though you achieved something great.
while in the mean time on a poker run in the real world at 88 + degree weather ( the guy with his dyno tune pigskin yells out my bikes running like chit) well......pull out your dyno sheet & fix it, dyno`s are nice but a base line - Ive dynode a few diesel engines & the real test is on the road.
Any crank can be tweaked; mine could go tomorrow but changing to a roller chain setup and an upgraded oil pump would not prevent that from happening
No those items wont stop Crank issues & ive balanced & trued cranks from GM, Ford, Mopar & many V twins - you don't start with a bad foundation & build on it - you like the OEM stuff with a quick fix that even HD realized was in need of intervention go at it, you like cyco shoes & the springs - you can have em....!
Clearly djl & I have build differences - OP don't listen to internet prattle mine or any others, go to an Indie or your dealer & let them know what you want to do & go with what best serves your needs. Ive seen many guys get hung up on dyno graphs & components that on paper look good but don't perform worth a crap, guys come on here & spout off numbers, cams, rockers, tuners, etc.... make sure you get the right recipe & you will be happy!
Last edited by LXT; Jul 26, 2017 at 03:24 PM.
Reason: added
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