Dynatek 2000i
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Stage III
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 3
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From: NJ
Dynatek 2000i
Ok guys, having some trouble with getting my bike started. I have a 2004 APC with a REVTEC motor 100 cubic inch. Not getting spark. Replaced coil, starter is good,spark plugs are new and we rewired the entire bike. Also gave it a new brain. I have the mode switches all off except the 6th position. It is also set with single fire. There is no spark. Can anyone offer a solution? Thanks, Jesse
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Joined: Aug 2008
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does it have a led on the module?? does it blink when cranking??? if it stays on then there is an over-load some where and the module shuts down.
make sure the ohmage is correct or it will over drive the ign.
make sure the ohmage is correct or it will over drive the ign.
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Stage III
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 3
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From: NJ
Yes it has led. No it was not blinking. Only the green light stays on. We reversed the pink and blue wires to coil since it says it will give it a better spark. No spark. Tested white wires and they have 12v coming in but going out reads 6.9. we have curve set to 1 as we have always had it that way. What else you got? ... Thanks for helping us out! And thank God we have a #2 bike!
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Joined: Aug 2008
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if you are not getting the red light to blink, there is no trigger. is your timing cup secured and correct for application?
the switching of the primary wire is only if the coil mounting forces you to say invert the coil. the pink must always be in rear position and blue forward, if this is not the case, then the cyls will fire out of order.
when you turn on power, the red light will turn on 1/4 second for a self test, indicates it passed. now if the timing cup is in the firing range, the led will blink and stay on.
if it flashes rapidly engine off, there is an over-load possible short or wrong coil.
engine running the led will flash 45* before tdc and go off at tdc each cyl.
you are running the right coil??
green says power, no red no trigger. as a redneck test, remove module and wave a metal object between the pick up slots and see if the red will blink, test both pickups.
the switching of the primary wire is only if the coil mounting forces you to say invert the coil. the pink must always be in rear position and blue forward, if this is not the case, then the cyls will fire out of order.
when you turn on power, the red light will turn on 1/4 second for a self test, indicates it passed. now if the timing cup is in the firing range, the led will blink and stay on.
if it flashes rapidly engine off, there is an over-load possible short or wrong coil.
engine running the led will flash 45* before tdc and go off at tdc each cyl.
you are running the right coil??
green says power, no red no trigger. as a redneck test, remove module and wave a metal object between the pick up slots and see if the red will blink, test both pickups.
Last edited by bustert; Sep 11, 2017 at 07:21 AM.
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: poway
Yes it has led. No it was not blinking. Only the green light stays on. We reversed the pink and blue wires to coil since it says it will give it a better spark. No spark. Tested white wires and they have 12v coming in but going out reads 6.9. we have curve set to 1 as we have always had it that way. What else you got? ... Thanks for helping us out! And thank God we have a #2 bike!
White wire and coil need 12V.. Pink and blue should be sitting at 12V with the ignition on and motor not cranking. If not then the module is likely smoked.
Did you forget to install the rotor cup?
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Joined: Aug 2008
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missed the white wire part. like was said, 12v on white coming from ign power, coil terminals will be at 12v since the ign mod grounds the other side to charge the coil. if the power at the mod white is that low, it will not work. redneck test is to remove mod white and place on a good 12v source and see if you get spark, if not, mod is probably toast.
i did have one failure from them but i do take it to the limits 7.5k rpm.
i did have one failure from them but i do take it to the limits 7.5k rpm.
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 49
Likes: 21
From: Minnesota
1994 springer softail.
S&S E carb, voes connected, single fire.
New dyna 2000I module (replacing a worn out HI4)
Bolted into the cone and wired.
Running rough at low rpm. Trying to find the problem.
Question 1: The green light on module is always blinking.
Can flip the dip switch on and off still blinking, runs the same with dip switch on/off.
Is module OK ?
Can you think of some other area I should be looking.
P.S. Friend thought maybey a leak at manifold/head or carb/manifold. Can find no leak.
S&S E carb, voes connected, single fire.
New dyna 2000I module (replacing a worn out HI4)
Bolted into the cone and wired.
Running rough at low rpm. Trying to find the problem.
Question 1: The green light on module is always blinking.
Can flip the dip switch on and off still blinking, runs the same with dip switch on/off.
Is module OK ?
Can you think of some other area I should be looking.
P.S. Friend thought maybey a leak at manifold/head or carb/manifold. Can find no leak.
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 49
Likes: 21
From: Minnesota
Update on my post above.
Green led no longer blinking. (with dip switch 1 off)
Tried curve 1 and curve 2.
Disconnected purple wire at connection between tanks. (purple dynatek wire to green HD voes wire)
Plugged vacuum tube at the carb.
And, same chit. Don't matter what I do. Runs like chit.
Hook the voes back up, curve 1, curve 2..no help.
Missing and sputtering like a engine out time at low RPM, no load.
Outta ideas...
Green led no longer blinking. (with dip switch 1 off)
Tried curve 1 and curve 2.
Disconnected purple wire at connection between tanks. (purple dynatek wire to green HD voes wire)
Plugged vacuum tube at the carb.
And, same chit. Don't matter what I do. Runs like chit.
Hook the voes back up, curve 1, curve 2..no help.
Missing and sputtering like a engine out time at low RPM, no load.
Outta ideas...