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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
How are you setting the timing? When setting the timing make sure front cylinder is on the compression stroke. Also double check which wire from the 2KI goes to which cylinder coil.
When you first turn on the ignition does the red light come on the go off? if so time to check the VOES. At idle voes should be grounded and timing should be maxed out from the module.. With purple wire disconnected start the motor and let idle. If you ground the purple wire the timing should advance as well as the rpm's should go up.. Also what OHM coil are you using?
Ok, will check the cylinder temp.
Set the timing according to the instructions.
Although I have set the timing (compression stroke) twice, I can certainly set it again.
Although I don't know that it would run if not set correctly.
Gone over the wires 3-4 times (blue to front/pink to rear)
I bought this bike new. So no worries about what the previous owner may have done or not done. I know the bike's history
Mods: Crane EV 23 cam, titanium push rods, S&S E carb, crane 8-3001 single fire coil. Stock harley pipes with baffles removed.
After 20 years the HI4 module crapped out. Thought I simply replace the HI4 with Dnyatek 2000I, and be on my way. (not so)
Keep thinking there has to be some stupid thing I missed. But I've back tracked a half dozen times.
Stumped.... But symptoms keep leading me back to voes.
I did send off an email to dynatek. See if they have any thoughts.
I think I can check the voes by plug and unplug hose, listen for change in rpm ?
Disconnected purple wire, and grounded = no change at all.
Reconnected purple wire, remove vacuum hose from top of S&S very little (hardly noticeable) change in RPM.
Checked for vacuum. At idle. Placed finger on carburetor vacuum inlet shows some vacuum sucking, not alot but can feel it.
Any thoughts ?
P.S. red light on module shows module is working correctly.
Last edited by UncleBill; May 28, 2018 at 08:05 AM.
Well,,,, Maybe there is something else wrong.. Probably in the wiring.. It might be what killed the Hi4. The module needs to ground the motor to the frame / battery. Bad power to the ignition?
Years ago I owned a CMC softail custom. They used thunderheart ignitions and it had an odd miss. I replace the module once under warranty and it came back.. I finally said " screw it? and replaced with the 2000i. Bike ran great from another 10000 miles.. It then developed a similar miss. This time it wasn't the module but a cracked wiring lug on the back of the ignition switch.. Fixed it and it ran fine til I sold it.
On my current evo bobber, I had a low end miss that was caused by the chrome coil cover cutting into one of the plug wires at the coil. It had a single fire Dynatek coil and the plug wire connections were in a slightly different location compared to the dual fire coils, just enough to cut into the plug wire and cause the miss.
In all the dyna 2000i is a good ignition I got a old worn out tour glide but it's all stripped down lmao anyways I got a s&s super e carb and this ignition made a mean combo the programming is the biggest plus for sure if u buy the programming harness and the kit you can really dial in the motor I ain't got no head work no big motor work besides a ev 27 cam but it still keep up fine with big *** twin cams just fine. Just about 5000 miles with it. I beat the absolute **** out of this poor bike and it does well both aspects highway and light to light I noticed soon as I got on it if its installed correctly I tuned it from the module it self at first then got the kit i got it set to the most aggressive setting and it performs 10/10
Last edited by Tourglideftww; Jul 18, 2021 at 09:59 PM.
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