Twin Cam motor removal
#1
Twin Cam motor removal
So my oil pump went bad on my 2006 Road King. I removed the oil pump and while doing so noticed it had scratched up and potentially bent the crank arm. I figured I'd try another oil pump and see if I could get away with it if it was just scratches. No such luck. The second oil pump lasted about 10 minutes before the inner gears were torn to shreds.
So now I'm at a point where I think I need to split the case and replace the crank, assuming there's no way of repairing the crank arm with it still on the bike.
Has anyone done this job before? Since I'm at it I'll remove the heads and put on a big bore kit. Does it make sense to remove the heads first then remove the crankcase from the bike? Can the crankcase be removed without first removing the tranny? Trying to find how to videos out there but haven't found much. I'm not even sure where to begin.
Any advice is appreciated.
So now I'm at a point where I think I need to split the case and replace the crank, assuming there's no way of repairing the crank arm with it still on the bike.
Has anyone done this job before? Since I'm at it I'll remove the heads and put on a big bore kit. Does it make sense to remove the heads first then remove the crankcase from the bike? Can the crankcase be removed without first removing the tranny? Trying to find how to videos out there but haven't found much. I'm not even sure where to begin.
Any advice is appreciated.
Last edited by fooschamp; 11-16-2017 at 08:08 AM.
#2
#4
First thing you need to do is get the OEM service manual for your bike. As has been stated, the trans remains in the frame and will have to be supported in some fashion. The primary should be removed as well as the top end and the lower unit is easily removed from the frame. I would suggest that you find a competent shop to split the cases, refurbish the lower unit and replace the crank. Or, pack the lower unit up and send it to Hoban Brothers (AKA Darkhorse) for a rebuild of the lower unit and crank repair or replacement. I would also suggest having the left side crank main bearing concerted to the Timken type or at least the HD "Lefty" bearing. The new crank should be trued, balanced and plugged or welded to insure against future failure. This won't be a cheap fix, so get your wallet out.
Last edited by djl; 11-16-2017 at 09:00 AM.
#5
agree it won't be cheap! I took the top end off and pulled the bottom end out, was easy enough to get the top end off while still mounted in the chassis. I brought the bottom end to R&R and had them bore it out 4.125 and had them replace the crank, rods, wheels, bearings were upgraded. With that work plus, cylinders/pistons, head work, I could have purchased a short block 124 from them or an S&S 124.
#6
agree it won't be cheap! I took the top end off and pulled the bottom end out, was easy enough to get the top end off while still mounted in the chassis. I brought the bottom end to R&R and had them bore it out 4.125 and had them replace the crank, rods, wheels, bearings were upgraded. With that work plus, cylinders/pistons, head work, I could have purchased a short block 124 from them or an S&S 124.
http://www.harley-davidson.com/conte...e_program.html
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