Question....Say you have the Screaming Eagle Adjustable Push rods, Different brand lifters and cam.
Adjust to the push rod Manufacture specs or ?

 

I just used the specs that the MFG provided (used S&S quickees for my cam swap), worked great, minimal valve noise and quiet start ups.

 

Usually preload is set .140"

21 flats for 24 tpi
27 flats for 32 tpi

 

Kinda what I thought, next question is what if the base circle on the new cam is less ...?

 

the base circle should not matter, first set your adjustable push rods to 0 lash then add what ever number of turns called for by the MFG of your adjustable rods.

 

Yes sorry I guess I was thinking about stock length.... you know what I mean.

Adjustable push rod base circle is zero no matter.
Think I'm going to add another 1/2 turn.

 

.140", to .150".
Scott

 

running adjustables with hydraulic lifters???

the most important thing is that the plunger does not contact the retainer clip. with cam/lifter on base, adjust the p/r till there is at least .010 clearance between plunger top and retainer clip. if you know plunger travel, you can set 1/4 of the stroke if you want. remember, what ever the clearance, you must factor in rocker ratio and this will give you valve stem clearance. why is this important?? well the lifters will bleed down when engine is off and lifter under spring pressure so on start up, there will be extra clearance so expect some valve train noise and the valve will not open fully.

i run rivera 40tpi p/r and one turn = .025 and i run 3 flats down = .012. i also run s&s lifter limiters so i am more solid cam than hydraulic. this clearance give minimal valve train noise and since the lifter can not bleed down no issues and i can run way past the hd rating 6.8k rpm. running this setup also alters the hydraulic profile which in my case helps for what i do.

 

Thanks Scott. I have them @1.5 now Sounds good.

 

24 tpi SE pushrods. Zero lash, three full turns, and lock them and forget them. Puts them at .125. Simple.