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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Shine onlyy matters becuse what I want is a smooth slippery surface that the carbon can't stick to .
it takes about an hour a head or piston using dremal stuff
Last edited by Kingglide549; Jul 26, 2018 at 08:14 AM.
Correct, but how many miles does it last for? I can totally see the benefits but if that shiny surface turns to black in 500 miles than I have to ask what's the long term point in doing it?
Now if it were a drag motor with 3hp/CI that gets torn down every weekend, then I understand, but with a street motor I have to ask if it's worth it.
Must be there is not a lot of do it yourselves on here.........
Used to polish the pistons tops. chambers and ports.
1. Found that polishing the ports would kill flow on the bench. The flow would become detached from the short side and the numbers would drop or become irregular. Also a motor with polish port would run rough mainly when the motor was cool as I suspect fuel was falling out of suspension and dribbling into the chamber.
2. Pistons and cylinder top polishing helped the motor run cooler during the first 1K to 2K but after that the carbon build up acts a thermal barrier that is just as good as polishing. Some of the drag race guys like it use thermal barrier coatings instead of polishing as the do about the same as polishing maybe better. I know one guy quit doing so because they were continuously modifying the chamber and piston tops while messing with the motor and didn't want to send the pistons out for recoating.
You want to experiment with chambers, try Singh grooves.
I am willing to try lots of things and i shoot for TBO of about 20K miles B4 a redo.
My heads are not put together for longevity, but for running great.
(You cant have both)
Most would consider all too short of miles and all wrong.
Like I said I steal ideas from everyone and have pretty good success. running high CR on the street.
Most anyone can put-together a wet bench of sorts and like Mondello says "engines don't run on CFM, they run on Volume.
Who am i to argue that point of view?
I use induced food coloring to watch the pathways....and the arguments will follow about flow benches.....You guys can do that, I am not going there.
You can put any two people together that work heads over, to argue what works.
But the dyno, for the most part, is the demarcation IF one knows NOT to get in a pissin war about HP.
Originally Posted by Mattbastard
So, I see the point but how long does it stay shiny? Every combustion chamber I've seen is full of black **** in a few hundred miles.
I tried buffing/polishing my 88" Sportster pistons but gave up when it was taking too long. Maybe I was doing it wrong.
The point is under running conditions is it does not have tooth to grip to and flakes It is very EZ.
To get the stuff off this round lots of places it just flakes off, no build up.
I might be right- no proof.
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; Jul 28, 2018 at 12:50 AM.
Reason: Multiple posts
Those are 40 thou shims on the studs to represent my head gasket when installed.
I know they look like retaining clips...they are not............ LOL
What I do is assemble the valves using very light springs from the hardware store,
as want to be able to "feel" what is going on there when I roll it over in high gear by hand.
I will post pics and results latter.
can get nothing done sitting here.
Note the tiny whimpy springs for mock-up.
the clay is in the valve pockets getting ready for rollover once push rods installed
Also, I do not want the hippo springs pushing on lifters that have not been pumped in a while...they would be slowly leaking dwn
and I would be chasing my tail trying to get a measurement
Last edited by Kingglide549; Aug 9, 2018 at 05:14 AM.
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