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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
so i had a leak on the inner primary case seal and found a cracked race. replaced it and got it all back together and now its over heating rather quickly. what gives? only other thing i did was i changed the plugs from hd1206 or something to ngk something 7e.. so changed those back to the hd ones and no improvment. i did install a dynatek tc88 performance ignition a month or so ago but been fine so far.. but i did change from A38 to A34 in hopes that less advance would run cooler. nope still hot as hell.. could the oil pump get messed up pulling the compensating sprocket?
so update on my issue.. though nobody seems to care 'o.0`
put a guage on it and would bounce from 0-10 so i shut it off and pulled the oil pump.. scored all over and a crack in the big gear.. was a new screamin eagle pump and cam plate with less than 1k on it...
since i got it it never ran low on oil but the engine had a failed oil pump just before i got it and i just pulled a couple little pieces of gasket material out of the cam plate passeges..with how bad the pump looks im thinking i should check the crank and rod bearings as well as clean out all oil passeges.. bassically overhaul the engine..
think i could get by as long as everythings within spec as far as crank end play/runout, lifter bore clearence, rod sideplay ect.. i think i know what im gona hear but just want to check with you guys and see what u think..
new pump, clear engine passages, flush oil tank, new cam plate put it together and check hot and cold oil pressure.( that is assuming that the crank runout checks out ok while disassembled. worth a shot.
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so update on my issue.. though nobody seems to care 'o.0`
put a guage on it and would bounce from 0-10 so i shut it off and pulled the oil pump.. scored all over and a crack in the big gear.. was a new screamin eagle pump and cam plate with less than 1k on it...
since i got it it never ran low on oil but the engine had a failed oil pump just before i got it and i just pulled a couple little pieces of gasket material out of the cam plate passeges..with how bad the pump looks im thinking i should check the crank and rod bearings as well as clean out all oil passeges.. bassically overhaul the engine..
think i could get by as long as everythings within spec as far as crank end play/runout, lifter bore clearence, rod sideplay ect.. i think i know what im gona hear but just want to check with you guys and see what u think..
It's really hard to diagnose a blown scavenge pump from a bad IPB. My ouija board said nothing.
I'll throw my theory out there. Took apart primary and in course of repairing the comp all the end play in the crank went to the pump side giving just enough room for the gyrator to get pushed out of the pump by the spring washer and the gyrator got misaligned and then when you tightened up the comp it broke the gyrator gear in the pump...im not sure if that much end plsy is even possible but it sure sounds good.
I'll throw my theory out there. Took apart primary and in course of repairing the comp all the end play in the crank went to the pump side giving just enough room for the gyrator to get pushed out of the pump by the spring washer and the gyrator got misaligned and then when you tightened up the comp it broke the gyrator gear in the pump...im not sure if that much end plsy is even possible but it sure sounds good.
It's gerotor not gyrator..
The crank won't move enough to to misalign any part of the pump. It might be possible to push the crank hard / far enough to right side of the bike that the edge of the rotor flat on the pinion shaft wedges into the scavenge gerotor and splits it but I suspect on a an 2 gerotor pump there is more than enough clearance. Guy found crap in the passage. That is more than likely the reason.
so i checked sideplay at .001 and runout at .0015 so on top of gasket material i think the real issue might have been the pressure relief plug was stuck open..
went to the cycle swap meet in sac today and picked up a couple pumps and cam plates and it doesnt look like i can use any of them..
i have s&s gear driven cams on SE cam plate and the oiling hole lis on top of the gear so it feeds into where the 2 cam gears mesh and this stock cam plate in on bottom in the middle of the gears where it would miss the gears and squirt oil on top the oil pump.. at least thats what it looks like what would happen..
the SE oil pump has bigger pump gears than the stock as well as larger ports in the cam okate.. can a stock pump keep up enough pressure with the larger ports on the SE cam plate?
so whats the best way to clean oil passages without complete dissasenbly? air? little iffy about using any solvent?
why do they run the steel pump gear up against an aluminum plate? seems like its going to wear out the aluminum easily..
so i checked sideplay at .001 and runout at .0015 so on top of gasket material i think the real issue might have been the pressure relief plug was stuck open..
went to the cycle swap meet in sac today and picked up a couple pumps and cam plates and it doesnt look like i can use any of them..
i have s&s gear driven cams on SE cam plate and the oiling hole lis on top of the gear so it feeds into where the 2 cam gears mesh and this stock cam plate in on bottom in the middle of the gears where it would miss the gears and squirt oil on top the oil pump.. at least thats what it looks like what would happen..
the SE oil pump has bigger pump gears than the stock as well as larger ports in the cam okate.. can a stock pump keep up enough pressure with the larger ports on the SE cam plate?
so whats the best way to clean oil passages without complete dissasenbly? air? little iffy about using any solvent?
why do they run the steel pump gear up against an aluminum plate? seems like its going to wear out the aluminum easily..
Gear drive cams were designed to run on stock cam plates.
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