I've got a 2018 CVO Limited that I'm getting ready to have the dealer install a new cam, lifters & exhaust on. They said they will cut the solid pushrods out and install adjustable pushrods. This is supposed to save labor, which I don't have a problem with.

Putting the labor time benefit aside, what are the pro's & cons of using an adjustable vs. solid pushrod? Is one always better or worse than the other?

 

One can establish a better pre-load on the lifter, with adjustable pushrods, as one example.
Scott

 

Never have to pull the rocker boxes to do cam swaps or oil pump maintenance is another.

 

Thanks, Scott.
Any downside to using them? Can they work their way out of adjustment overtime?

 

I put 30k on a 02 RKC with adjustable rods with no problems, if that is any consolation..

 

What’s the cost of adjustable rods and collapsible covers compared to the labor?

I myself prefer perfect fit push rods, but I do realize I’m the minority for preferring this.

Why, because of the cost of the tubes and rods. Small chance of them coming Loose and it’s just more o-rings to possibly leak.

I leave adjustables for when I run hydrosolids or solids.

I think it’s silly to purchase adjustables for the sole reason of adjusting them for a stock type hydraulic lifter. Just my 2 cents.

 

In my scenario, adjustable pushrods are being recommended for a cam install to reduce the labor expense. I'm not contemplating doing them just to do them. That's not the question in this thread.

 

ya, I know. I didn’t state you were doing them just to do them ya RUB. Lmao


my last statement was not directed at you at all. I was rambling about pushrods and my 2 cents about YOUR QUESTION. Little sensitive today? Lol

 

Sensitive?? No, not at all. Just couldn't tell if you got lost in the wilderness with your last sentence. LMAO.
Just trying to keep the thread on point.

 

The advantages of adjustables have been previously laid out in #2 and #3. However, those advantages may not apply to the OP's situation. A set of SE tapered quick install pushrods, complete with tubes, clips and o-rings will cost about $135 from an HD discount dealer, plus shipping, of course, or about $170 retail. Neither of my bikes has seen the inside of a dealership, except for when they were delivered to the dealer from the factory so I am not sure what dealer's charge these days for a cam install. A few years back, my brother had a BB kit installed and the dealer charged 8.8 hours, so I imagine a cam change would run about 8 hours. So, I would think adjustable push rods would take at least two hours away from doing it the other way; maybe 3. So at $100/hour, retaining OEM pushrods would save $200-$300. If the dealer is promoting a cost savings, the OP should get the dealer to provide an estimate doing it both ways.

The OP may be able to run the OEM pushrods; depends on cam base circle and head gasket. A .030" head gasket will add .015" to the OEM pushrod preload which may be enough to keep the valve train quiet if the added preload is not offset by a reduction in the cam base circle. So, why not give the OEM parts a try and if the valve train is noisy, they can be replace with adjustables. If the OP is not a DIY guy (seems not to be) and this is the only modification being considered, OEM or perfect fit pushrods make sense.

There is a downside to adjustables. The fact that one has to adjust them is one and the possibility of an adjuster backing off is another. I know from personal experience that adjusters can back off. While it is uncommon, it can and does happen. Having said that, even though I have had an adjuster come loose twice, I run adjustables in the performance built motors in both my bikes. However, I do use, very sparingly, a tiny bit of red Loctite between face of the adjuster and pushrod bottom. If I did not suffer from tinkeritus, I would have installed perfect fit pushrods but last season, I ran three different cam sets so adjustables made sense. In addition, since the dealer is doing the work, if an adjuster does come loose and results in damage, the repair should be on the dealer. There is the inconvenience of a roadside breakdown and subsequent tow is not a warranty item.

I know, the OP asked "what time is it" and I replied by telling him how to build a watch; sorry.