eng temp Sensor
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From: Seattle, Wa
Hay Ed I have to go dn to HD and pick up the beaker tomorrow as they did not have it in stock. I'm going to also change the eng temp wile I'm at it just because. I feel you are right about the main brker. As it is shutting dn more often, now as I ride in fact I can almost tell when it will happen by the heat coming off my pipe as it gose under my seat. I will have the new true single exhaust pipes on by next week which should also help as the main bker in placed right over the pipe. So it makes scene that with heat and age it's starting to pop more often. As soon as I'm done I will post my finding. I do believe it is still the old 40amp. I will also solder the crimps as they look hand done. Thanks for your input I like to learn the how to's
Hay Ed I have to go dn to HD and pick up the beaker tomorrow as they did not have it in stock. I'm going to also change the eng temp wile I'm at it just because. I feel you are right about the main brker. As it is shutting dn more often, now as I ride in fact I can almost tell when it will happen by the heat coming off my pipe as it gose under my seat. I will have the new true single exhaust pipes on by next week which should also help as the main bker in placed right over the pipe. So it makes scene that with heat and age it's starting to pop more often. As soon as I'm done I will post my finding. I do believe it is still the old 40amp. I will also solder the crimps as they look hand done. Thanks for your input I like to learn the how to's
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Aug 30, 2019 at 08:37 PM.
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Thanks ED. I just finished. the old breaker was a 50amp . the copper term. looked darkened/corroded so I changed it to the new one then I solder the ring term/wiring I then when around and solder all of the pos ring term's as they all looked funky a lot of bad crimps. will get out for a ride later to day and see. But the real test will come on/in Tuesday's traffic. I just got my new shop & wiring Manuals so I will follow the wiring trail as best I can to learn what someone else has done and clean it up. Thanks for the guiding
Thanks ED. I just finished. the old breaker was a 50amp . the copper term. looked darkened/corroded so I changed it to the new one then I solder the ring term/wiring I then when around and solder all of the pos ring term's as they all looked funky a lot of bad crimps. will get out for a ride later to day and see. But the real test will come on/in Tuesday's traffic. I just got my new shop & wiring Manuals so I will follow the wiring trail as best I can to learn what someone else has done and clean it up. Thanks for the guiding
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Ok all new parts, soldered the ring term. Started her up turned on light raido with in about two min. the not copper term started getting warm wile the cooper one did not. Did not know how long to let her run. did not get hot enough to burn my finger, will take her out for a ride here in a wile, to see what happens.
Ok all new parts, soldered the ring term. Started her up turned on light raido with in about two min. the not copper term started getting warm wile the cooper one did not. Did not know how long to let her run. did not get hot enough to burn my finger, will take her out for a ride here in a wile, to see what happens.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Sep 3, 2019 at 04:37 PM.
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So yes it was getting hot in checking the wires from the voltage reg. to the breaker to the starter and on to the Battery i notice an extra red + wire on the bat. Just to test thing out and not knowing where it went I unhooked it for now. started every thing up turned every thing on and no heat on the silver terminal they both stayed warm but did not get hot to the touch? Bike is now in the HD shop getting the new header on and the ECM reset. somethings are just easier to have them do when I don't have the time. I get it back in a week. up here HD comes and picks it up dose the wk and brings it back in a week at no extra charge
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