New here. First off I aquired this bike from my father in law who's former PD. Now me being current PD he felt it needed to be given to me to cherish since his daughter and my wife grew up on the bike. The bike is a 2002 Electra glide police EFI with 28k on the odometer. The bike sat for 7 years in a garage with gas in the tank.

So the story goes I got the bike and immediately tore the gas tank off and stripped it and sealed the tank because it was rusted very bad inside the tank. While resealing I purchased a all new quantum fuel systems pump, regulator, fuel filter and fuel pump strainer with all new pump lines. Also replaced the fuel level sensor because the riostat ribbon had been eaten away aswell. The only line I didn't replace was the quick disconnect line which I did order from quantum but didn't work as the design is flawed (had to email and send pictures to them for their R&D division to make changes to. So I went ahead and installed the old quick disconnect line back in the tank and buttoned everything back up.

Before filling it up and firing it back up I went ahead and decided to do some new parts that I figured needed to be changed due to the time of staying idle for 7 years. These included new spark plugs, cleaned throttle body, removed and cleaned injectors, and a 3 part oil change (Primary,trans and oil change) also cleaned the speed sensor off in the trans.

So fast forward and I filled her up (93octane)a fired it up for the first time. The bike sounded like it was running on one cylinder but would run but shook badly. After some research on these forums I found the quick disconnect lines are prone to pinhole leaks. So I drained the tank and went to Harley for a new line. Went ahead and installed that and fired it back up and at idle it was night and day difference bike was running on both cylinders and sounded way better. My wife who grew up on the bike said there she is back to normal. Gave her a couple of whirls on the throttle and called it a night as it was midnight already. So the next day I wake up excited to get on the road with the bike and show my buddies the new bike. The bike cranks for a good 20 seconds before wanting to fire up and then it seems its running great idling around 1000rpms and revs fine when I burped the throttle a couple of times. Threw it into first gear and leave my driveway and before I can get 100ft down the road the bike starts to almost choke and buck and sputtering. I hear popping coming from the intake and exhaust and the bike wants to die when i give it any gas. The bike dies after trying to get the boke revs stable to just limp it back home. I start the bike back up and it starts almost instantly and still had the same symptoms and won't rev enough for me to get some momentum and I hear it sputtering and popping... Finally as I get into my driveway it sputters and dies and smoke exits my air filter.

I rolled it into the garage and started it back up thinking well we'll do a intake leak test with some ol carb cleaner. I start it back up and it idles fine, start spraying and find the revs die down when I get to about 12 o clock position on the mating gasket behind the air intake plate right before butterfly valve of throttle body.

My questions after this long story is I've also read the engine temp sensor has some similar problems that mimic what I'm doing minus the high idle rpm. I'm planning on getting a new air cleaner gasket tomorrow but would this little leak cause this much turbulence on the bike or should I look at the ETS also.

Anyone have any similar.problems? This forum has been a wealth of info for me and I couldn't think of a better place to start. Thanks for yalls time. And to cover all corners the bike has no active check engine light on.

 

sounds like a fuel volume issue to me. take fuel volume test.

 

Forgive my lack of knowledge of that but how is that conducted? Fuel pressure test?

 

I doubt it is the temp sensor, but you can test it by measuring it's resistance and comparing it to specs. Injectors with 7 year old gas probably need replacing. I would do a fuel pressure test first. You did a lot in the tank, and an internal fuel leak or restriction is possible. H-D's fuel pressure test is useless at idle, you have to really get the bike under a load to see what's happening. You can have an internal fuel leak or a kinked line, and show good pressure at idle but not under load. You could also have an intake leak (won't be the bulk of these symptoms but your description of the test is wrong so you should do it correctly to verify.) Spraying around the throttle bore will get the fumes into it and mimic a leak. You need to spray the flanges at the heads and don't flood it - short little bursts. You could also have some of whatever you sealed the tank with coming off and restricting the fuel sock.

 

Okay ill go ahead and button everything back up and check intake leaks correctly at the heads. I picked up a full gasket kit for the induction system today and new intake seals just in case. As far as the internal tank having a pinch I'll double check it but was pretty careful of how I routed the lines and placed the fuel assembly unit back into the tank. Now one question I did have was after this new fuel pump install in order to get the fuel pump assembly top plate back on and mated with the tank I find myself having to put pressure down on the plate to allow the holes to line up and mate with the top of the tank. Should there be that kinda downward pressure needed or should it just fall into place and sit on the top of the tank? I'll see if I can snap some pictures. Was wondering maybe that downward pressure is pressing on the fuel pickup to much?? Dunno kinda shooting in the dark

 

There is a typically a very small amount of pressure because the pump sits in the bottom of the tank on a rubber foot to keep it solidly mounted. It feels a little "springy". I would do a fuel pressure test before I took it all apart.

 

Gotcha then that's fine. That's the exact kind of pressure I had to give it. So before I go and drop 180 on injectors I was told by a tech at the dealership to replace the IAC valve and map sensor aswell he mentioned to also maybe replace injectors because they have been superceded twice already. All I did for my injector cleaning was remove them and do the 9 volt pulse cleaning with carb cleaner. Also pulled the spark plugs just now and they look to have almost a little bit of oil on the heads... Just a fyi

 

IAC will not cause it to die going down the road. Only way to check a MAP sensor is to monitor live data. Injectors were superseded from brown band to white because the white band were a closer tolerance - browns are fine. The way you cleaned the injectors is not really good based on sitting 7 years. There are companies properly clean, flow test and replace the filter in them. If there was gas in the system for 7 years, and you saw the tank, what do you think the injectors are like inside? Just food for thought.

 

Okay agreed on the injectors I'll look up some companies to ship them off to for proper cleaning then. So I'm stuck at replacing all the intake gaskets and doing a proper fuel pressure test on the fuel pump now. I'll chime in when I know more. Just don't see how everything brand new in the tank would give me these kind of headache's.

 

So I had the injectors professionally cleaned and was told only about a 10% increase in flow was seen. So wasn't to thrilled about that but non the less moved forward and installed the new intake gaskets. I had been searching all over for a adapter to run a fuel pressure test and finally found one and was able to run the test. During idle it's running at 40psi and under a load 35psi.

Am I correct in assuming the pump is the only culprit now even being brand new (quantum).