Need Engine Mod Advise 2001 Dyna Low Rider 88"
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Seabrook, NH
Need Engine Mod Advise 2001 Dyna Low Rider 88"
You may have read my previous post. We were told the bike was a 95" with a 203. Opened the cam cover and pulled the cam plate to find stock cams and a very worn rear tensioner. Ordered CYCO shoes but need to make a choice.
Engine ran great so do we repair and just put it back together and think big picture i.e. barrels, heads and cams this winter?
I also have a set of SE203 cams. Do I replace the stock and then put it back together and run it for the remainder of the year?
Install Andrews 37 or S&S 510 now and settle for these as the solution for future mods?
Bike has a carb, SE Pro 2 into 1 exhaust and SE Air Filter. He is looking for a build that has good mid to top end power and is happy with the low end TQ it currently has.
Part purchases will be occuring very soon so any advise is greatly appreciated.
Engine Compression Test 150/150 if that makes a difference.
Engine ran great so do we repair and just put it back together and think big picture i.e. barrels, heads and cams this winter?
I also have a set of SE203 cams. Do I replace the stock and then put it back together and run it for the remainder of the year?
Install Andrews 37 or S&S 510 now and settle for these as the solution for future mods?
Bike has a carb, SE Pro 2 into 1 exhaust and SE Air Filter. He is looking for a build that has good mid to top end power and is happy with the low end TQ it currently has.
Part purchases will be occuring very soon so any advise is greatly appreciated.
Engine Compression Test 150/150 if that makes a difference.
Last edited by 2013_FLHTK; Apr 29, 2020 at 08:43 AM.
HDF Community Team
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From: san antonio
The answer to this question always comes down to how much money one wants to spend. Once that is known, one does as much as the available funds will allow. Base line at this point would be to replace the tensioners with the CYCO parts, replace inner and outer cam bearings, install the SE203 cams button up the cam chest, re-jet the carb and ride the bike until you can figure out how much you want to spend and develop a plan for a winter project.
Last edited by djl; Apr 29, 2020 at 10:40 AM.
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From: Globe AZ
I'm in roughly the same boat, just slightly farther down the rabbit hole. Mine is a 2000 ultra with the fuel injection and 108k on it. I'm looking at a top end due to some oil consumption and smoking at high throttle settings, so due for a refresh. DJI and I have been hashing out a plan of action on mine for almost a week now, you can check out that thread below.
where you already have the cam chest open and the cans on hand, you may as well install the new cams. The 203's aren't a real high performance cam, but more aggressive than the stock carbed cams are. That should give a bit of pep until you open up the cylinders at a later date.
where you already have the cam chest open and the cans on hand, you may as well install the new cams. The 203's aren't a real high performance cam, but more aggressive than the stock carbed cams are. That should give a bit of pep until you open up the cylinders at a later date.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Seabrook, NH
The answer to this question always comes down to how much money one wants to spend. Once that is known, one does as much as the available funds will allow. Base line at this point would be to replace the tensioners with the CYCO parts, replace inner and outer cam bearings, install the SE203 cams button up the cam chest, re-jet the carb and ride the bike until you can figure out how much you want to spend and develop a plan for a winter project.
Again thank you for your input.
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From: OH
Last edited by eighteight; Apr 29, 2020 at 12:36 PM.
HDF Community Team
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From: san antonio
A stock or Stage I TC88 will be soft on the bottom with the Andrews 37 or the S&S 510 as compared to other cam choices.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Seabrook, NH
If all parts are on hand, down time is minimal. You are looking at part of a Saturday but you will need a press or access to a press to install the cams. You will also need a blind hole puller which can be rented from Auto Zone or Advanced Auto Parts to pull the inner cam bearings which can be tapped in using one of the old cams as a driver; just have to be careful. Freeze the bearings over night, liberally apply cam lube and tap them in with numbers facing out.. There is also the "oven/freezer" method for installing outer cam bearings on the cams as well as installing cams into the cam plate which eliminates the need for a press. Have done it a couple of times before buying tools and a press which was needed for other projects.
A stock or Stage I TC88 will be soft on the bottom with the Andrews 37 or the S&S 510 as compared to other cam choices.
A stock or Stage I TC88 will be soft on the bottom with the Andrews 37 or the S&S 510 as compared to other cam choices.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: san antonio
The CV40 gets talked down a lot but it is actually a good carb. Drill the vacuum port to 1/8", clip a couple of loops off the slide spring to reduce tension, get a couple of .025" SS washers so you can experiment with raising the needle and get a couple of sizes larger on the main jet. Check the bottom of the carb to see if the cap concealing the A/F idle screw has been removed as you will likely need to make an adjustment there as well. Nightrider has some good info on the CV40 carb and CV Performance has all the other hardware you will need for the carb.
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/
https://cv-performance.com/harley-cv-carburetor-parts
Last edited by djl; Apr 29, 2020 at 02:30 PM.
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