Dyna good to bad
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,956
Likes: 439
From: florida
Dyna good to bad
Ok guys I’m head scratching. ‘11 dyna runs great for 10-15 minutes on multiple rides then like a switch gets a rough deep exhaust note with a little loss of power but still rides wout hesitating or misfires. It’s like the fuel and or timing just goes wacky. Comp test was normal each cylinder tested warm, plugs seemed darkish not too bad so swapped out but no change. Map sensor? Any good ideas? Running great then not each test ride same outcome. Heat is causing something to change
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 3,855
Likes: 1,184
From: florida
if it was me,,,,id set up my fuel pressure gauge on it and go for a ride and see if the fuel pressure changes in relation to the symptom. that i'd do first to confirm it and get it out of the way. i'm assuming that you've got no codes as you didn't say so.
if you have a TTS or a PV you can make a data run on your test ride and review that info and see if it sheds any light anywhere.
m
if you have a TTS or a PV you can make a data run on your test ride and review that info and see if it sheds any light anywhere.
m
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,956
Likes: 439
From: florida
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,956
Likes: 439
From: florida
if it was me,,,,id set up my fuel pressure gauge on it and go for a ride and see if the fuel pressure changes in relation to the symptom. that i'd do first to confirm it and get it out of the way. i'm assuming that you've got no codes as you didn't say so.
if you have a TTS or a PV you can make a data run on your test ride and review that info and see if it sheds any light anywhere.
m
if you have a TTS or a PV you can make a data run on your test ride and review that info and see if it sheds any light anywhere.
m
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,958
Likes: 8,050
From: poway
Generally the cranks sensor will cause the bike to quit or be hard to start when hot.
The map sensor can be failing in a manner that causes it to run the slow part of the curve. I've had this issue on a carbed bike. Could be a temp sensors. Data recording will find that.
You could be loosing fuel pressure bit the bike will typically cough a lot.
Another issue could be sumping. It feels like the bike is running with the rear brake on. Compression braking works extra well.
The map sensor can be failing in a manner that causes it to run the slow part of the curve. I've had this issue on a carbed bike. Could be a temp sensors. Data recording will find that.
You could be loosing fuel pressure bit the bike will typically cough a lot.
Another issue could be sumping. It feels like the bike is running with the rear brake on. Compression braking works extra well.
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Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,956
Likes: 439
From: florida
Generally the cranks sensor will cause the bike to quit or be hard to start when hot.
The map sensor can be failing in a manner that causes it to run the slow part of the curve. I've had this issue on a carbed bike. Could be a temp sensors. Data recording will find that.
You could be loosing fuel pressure bit the bike will typically cough a lot.
Another issue could be sumping. It feels like the bike is running with the rear brake on. Compression braking works extra well.
The map sensor can be failing in a manner that causes it to run the slow part of the curve. I've had this issue on a carbed bike. Could be a temp sensors. Data recording will find that.
You could be loosing fuel pressure bit the bike will typically cough a lot.
Another issue could be sumping. It feels like the bike is running with the rear brake on. Compression braking works extra well.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,958
Likes: 8,050
From: poway
I know its not sumping, no brake like feel just a strong difference in exhaust note and minimal power loss. Map sensor going would increase hot? Dont know, map going could retard or advance timing and alter AFRs, seems like its running like that and maybe reason plugs looked slightly dark. Only ran it few times w these symptoms just handful of miles. Same result each run like clockwork 10-15 min in. Not cutting out or hesitation just bogged down like the tune all of sudden sucks. Ill have to start w the MAP but still curious why heat brings this on
I suspect that heat causes the MAP sensor to fail. In my case it drove me crazy. I had a higher compression 116 dyna. While it would feel a little sluggish, the big thing was that it wouldn't idle. Set the idle moderately warm and after getting it good and hot the idle would drop. Since it was carbed, it would almost die. Adjust the idle and next start up, idle too high. I replaced the intake manifold seals 3-4 times. Finally replaced the MAP and all was good.
Now you might be thinking. WTF does this have to do with my bike? Well, a 2011 is EFI and it knows how it adjust the idle automagicly. The big thing you will feel is a drop off in throttle response on EFI. If you do a log run, you should see the IAC steps go up.. A good way to place a marker in the data is to blip the throttle 3 times also remember your route when collecting data.. Look at throttle steps at idle. Also look at the intake and cylinder head temps.
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,956
Likes: 439
From: florida
I suspect that heat causes the MAP sensor to fail. In my case it drove me crazy. I had a higher compression 116 dyna. While it would feel a little sluggish, the big thing was that it wouldn't idle. Set the idle moderately warm and after getting it good and hot the idle would drop. Since it was carbed, it would almost die. Adjust the idle and next start up, idle too high. I replaced the intake manifold seals 3-4 times. Finally replaced the MAP and all was good.
Now you might be thinking. WTF does this have to do with my bike? Well, a 2011 is EFI and it knows how it adjust the idle automagicly. The big thing you will feel is a drop off in throttle response on EFI. If you do a log run, you should see the IAC steps go up.. A good way to place a marker in the data is to blip the throttle 3 times also remember your route when collecting data.. Look at throttle steps at idle. Also look at the intake and cylinder head temps.
Now you might be thinking. WTF does this have to do with my bike? Well, a 2011 is EFI and it knows how it adjust the idle automagicly. The big thing you will feel is a drop off in throttle response on EFI. If you do a log run, you should see the IAC steps go up.. A good way to place a marker in the data is to blip the throttle 3 times also remember your route when collecting data.. Look at throttle steps at idle. Also look at the intake and cylinder head temps.
Ive chased timing issues before w TTS on different bike and ya I used the 3 rev technique to mark, route awareness is good idea too.