Well, sounds like you have it all figured out so I will leave you with my final thoughts; tak'em or leav'em.

The only cam plate I would not use is the '07 up OEM plate that runs the outer cam journals in the parent material of the plate.
SE pump, '07 up, is fine but it is not compatible with the '06 cam plate; Daytona hi-capacity pump is compatible with the '06 cam plate.
There is no need for conversion cams and some cams are not available in conversion configuration as well as some not available in gear drive. I run early cams in a 98" motor that makes 115/115 with no issues.
No need for the Baisley spring with the higher capacity oil pump; doesn't cost much but not needed; same goes for the plunger. OEM is fine but polishing it up with a Scotchbrite pad keeps it moving freely in the bore.
Most "flash" tuners use wide band O2 sensors and any with auto tune feature use wide band O2 sensors.

Good luck with the project and keep us posted.

 

Thanks for all your help, djl -

Best,
John

 

That's what I would like to avoid (plate without bearings) - but can I get a plate with outer bearings that will take the hydraulic tensioners? Are the bushing sleeved plates okay? What years were they made?
The '07 SE billet plate and the S&S plate both have bronze bushings in lieu or bearings. The '06 OEM cam plate and the Fueling cam plate use bearings to carry the outer cam journals. I am still of the opinion that the '06 OEM cam plate is more than adequate and Daytona makes a pump with the same upgraded capacity as the SE pump and I believe a cheaper option.

I thought "conversion" cams were those with 0.875-in inner journals,1-inch outer journals, and roller chain gears. I thought picking a grind would be the tough decision!
Lots of cam choices and IMHO, the cam should be selected first based on riding style i.e., TQ or HP and the build plan developed around the cam selected.

That's what I thought - and I figured auto-tune feature would let me run the bike (limited operation) until I can get to a dyno.
The break in period is critical. I would not rely on the auto tune feature during the break in period. IMHO, the best approach is to do a couple of heat cycles, no longer than 60 seconds to check for leaks and listen for unpleasant noises. Get the bike to the dyno (if no too far, ride there) break in on the dyno to establish ring seal and then move right into a full tune. Talk to your tuner about that possibility. Second choice for break in would be to find a "map" that closest match your configuration as a base tune but get the bike on a dyno ASAP.

 

I appreciate those final thoughts as well - that tells me (I think) which cam plate to order. Will check with retailer to make sure of the cam bearings/bushings.

I'm in process of finding a tuner. I'm thinking I should involve them/him/her in the build before it starts, so they'll know what to expect.

I actually was traveling today and had a chance to visit Pro Twin Performance in Winder, GA. Impressive shop, filled with bikes - both customer bikes and several custom builds in progress. I'm hoping to build a relationship with them, for the build as well as follow up service needs.

Thanks again,
John

 

Hi John.

Warning..I ramble...Not much on engine mods. Power is not my interest. Reliability. But I do do all work. Bike has 50K on it and is probably sadly just a display now. If RIP goes before me, I will put it in the den.

Think my bars may be of interest here. Also some other details. Don't know the exact part number since they were purchased at the Harley dealership parts and fit a seat or bars and then installed at the service department along with the SS cables. The original owner was much shorter than I. He had the SE package installed also. Front shorter springs but the same capacity by reducing the space between the coils and longer rear shocks (longer lowers on a Softail). Shorter stand. Also, a Corbin seat that he returned to the manufacturer to lower. (which they did by removing padding down but adding some to move it forward.)

Bars I think were OEM from a bigger Harley FLH cruiser. Not sure what designates buckhorn. I sold the original Duece bars but as I recall, they were slightly higher, much narrow, and not nearly as far back in reach. I sure would not want apes. I can see them getting you in trouble in a turn if you ever make mistakes entering one too fast. These bars work well for my 6'3" frame. I padded the seat with a custom leather pad I sewed up. (the tag you see came from a D ring Willie & Max throw over I cut up for my rear tie-downs for Saddleman carry bag. My helmet lock is courtesy of Yamaha. Had a Harley one but it sucked down on the tube. Who wants to cook your helmet and hang it on the ground.. Ha. Also added the fwd controls and spurs. So that bar reach became perfect.

Bars do make a difference. I was working on a 40K SE Dyna. It had straight bars. Just testing my work hurt from driving it a short distance. Scared me. It had a locking clutch that was a pain. Idle was crazy. No power at first and then it felt like a bomb went off. The shifter and brake lever position were impossible for me other than lifting my whole leg. Needed illegal in VA earplugs on it. I would not have given $40 for it.

My risers are very similar to stock Duece but the cap bolt spacing is wider since that is how Harley designed the tac mount. Why? Answer $$.

I reinstalled the front longer springs. Set the longer rear shocks to the softest position (a pain). I would have put the originial rear shocks on but I liked the look of the taller front and lower rear.. However, they bottom in back if you are not careful with that. That is annoying. The original owner had them set hard since he rode two up. However, to me who never rides two up found it harsh. It's just a pain and I have rever tried to go back halfway.

Some dimensions on my bars. apx.. thru risers is 11" to the turns. The turn ups are 7". Then the length from the top is 11". Duece riser kick bac 1 1/2" and are 5 1/2" off the tree. So there I have about almost 9 1/2" rise to the center of my grips were I have bars angled. The span to the center of grips is 29". Lot of leverage compared to the original. (You only need leverage at slow to no speed...and a Duece with its rake needs more then let's say a Fatboy. (When I get on a Fatboy, it's like power steering) Also, I have my fall away at a minimum (lose and no preload on bearings..just no play) At speed with the wind and trucks, you can drive it forever on the interstate just leaning to steer.

Those last three shots are a device I came up with to easily realign the rear for perfect belt tracking using my caliper after tire changes or other maintenance. Also, my axle has flopped so mufflers don't need to come off. Last one is you will have to guess where it goes. Also special locking lug on jiffy stand from K monel is in one picture.

Other changes. Rear red run and brake lights. Bootleg SE engine badge for 50HP for $10!?? Haa. Harley Star wheel. Rear plate mount trimmed to fit the plate. (Harleys version of that was huge and then went to ebay. Chrome belt guard. Harley bags and 100 Anniversary shield. 96 Nighttrain brand new takeoff exhaust system. I drilled one 5/16 hole thru the center plate that opens the inner baffle straight thru. Sounds just like you cammed it but not loud. Came with Python long shots. Went to eBay. . . Led rear brake light to take some load off brake light switches. The bike is on the third hydraulic and second front micro.switchs. No sense for me doing signals sense you need resisters.

 

just a thought for you on dyno tuners in Ga. George Bryce is in Americus, Ga he runs star power. Lots of experience in engine build and runs the bagger class drags. Lots of videos out called tech talk Tuesday if you want to look him up on YouTube or FB. StarRacingGa on YT

 

Thanks, John.
JHS