Delkron case/engine decoding
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,705
Likes: 22,718
From: Farmington ,MS
No he is referring to the external oil drains...which are used on large CI shovels...not even a little bit factory...
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 3,814
Likes: 1,168
From: florida
its most likely a big inch hot rod shovel, but without tearing it down to inspect whats inside, you wont know much. you might be able to get flywheel numbers if you look through the timing plug hole and at least find out the brand and stroke and maybe what rods were used if it was a complete assembly at time of purchase. you are into the arena of full on custom building and nothing!! absolutely NOTHING can be taken for granted. you are going to spend a LOT of time doing research and mocking things up and making the required changes as you go. it can be done, not rocket science, but for one with no prior experience, there will be a learning curve involved. take your time, be patient, measure 2x, cut 1.
m
m
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,104
Likes: 51,374
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
You have what looks like an aftermarket 5 in a 4 speed case transmission, would have to see the underside to be sure. Motor is total aftermarket frankenstein, rocker boxes may be OEM but you won't know what size it is till you open it, could stock to over 100", safe bet is 88" to 96" those were the most common build sizes like that.
Frame is for the earlier mechanical drum rear brake rear wheels, going to be tight trying to stuff a disc brake wheel in there, can be done but you can't use any aluminum mounting plate units will have to be the older 1/4" steel caliper mount plates. Frame can be modified if you or someone you know has some skills.
Bike is what I call a swap meet special meaning somebody built it from from aftermarket and swap meet parts. Done several that way myself. This is going to be a real project with lots have to make things work type stuff, very little will just bolt on.
Frame is for the earlier mechanical drum rear brake rear wheels, going to be tight trying to stuff a disc brake wheel in there, can be done but you can't use any aluminum mounting plate units will have to be the older 1/4" steel caliper mount plates. Frame can be modified if you or someone you know has some skills.
Bike is what I call a swap meet special meaning somebody built it from from aftermarket and swap meet parts. Done several that way myself. This is going to be a real project with lots have to make things work type stuff, very little will just bolt on.
Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Dec 18, 2020 at 01:44 PM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 3,159
Likes: 2,202
From: College Station, TX
As stated above, very likely larger Shovelhead engine. It's common to use cylinder head external oil return lines like that with longer stoke engines because the factory return is through a hole in the cylinder. Depending on the actual stroke being used, when the piston is at the bottom of the stroke, the rings may be at or below the return hole allowing (compression) pressure to enter the crankcase. Which would not be good. Shovelhead stokers with factory heads that did not have external return lines, we would drive a piece of 5/16 copper tubing in the cylinder return hole to block it off and then drill the cases to allow oil to drain directly back to the cases and then pumped back to the oil tank.
And as stated above, I'd pull the top end and see what you really have, cylinder bore etc. Is the connecting rod side play within specs etc, and look for any markings to identify them? You also need to know what cam is in it to know much more. So at the very least, freshen it up with some new rings, gaskets and seals and verify everything is fitting correctly before going through all the effort to get it running.
One thing that wasn't said is that if it's much over 4.5 inch stoke, it isn't going to be an easy kick start for the less experienced. Too much advance o the ignition timing and kick back would be likely. I'd also try to identify the frame to be sure it is solid and will withstand the potential of the engine. But it could be a fun project.
Just my 2 cents.
good luck with it,
Paul
And as stated above, I'd pull the top end and see what you really have, cylinder bore etc. Is the connecting rod side play within specs etc, and look for any markings to identify them? You also need to know what cam is in it to know much more. So at the very least, freshen it up with some new rings, gaskets and seals and verify everything is fitting correctly before going through all the effort to get it running.
One thing that wasn't said is that if it's much over 4.5 inch stoke, it isn't going to be an easy kick start for the less experienced. Too much advance o the ignition timing and kick back would be likely. I'd also try to identify the frame to be sure it is solid and will withstand the potential of the engine. But it could be a fun project.
Just my 2 cents.
good luck with it,
Paul
Thread Starter
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5th Gear
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
As stated above, very likely larger Shovelhead engine. It's common to use cylinder head external oil return lines like that with longer stoke engines because the factory return is through a hole in the cylinder. Depending on the actual stroke being used, when the piston is at the bottom of the stroke, the rings may be at or below the return hole allowing (compression) pressure to enter the crankcase. Which would not be good. Shovelhead stokers with factory heads that did not have external return lines, we would drive a piece of 5/16 copper tubing in the cylinder return hole to block it off and then drill the cases to allow oil to drain directly back to the cases and then pumped back to the oil tank.
And as stated above, I'd pull the top end and see what you really have, cylinder bore etc. Is the connecting rod side play within specs etc, and look for any markings to identify them? You also need to know what cam is in it to know much more. So at the very least, freshen it up with some new rings, gaskets and seals and verify everything is fitting correctly before going through all the effort to get it running.
One thing that wasn't said is that if it's much over 4.5 inch stoke, it isn't going to be an easy kick start for the less experienced. Too much advance o the ignition timing and kick back would be likely. I'd also try to identify the frame to be sure it is solid and will withstand the potential of the engine. But it could be a fun project.
Just my 2 cents.
good luck with it,
Paul
And as stated above, I'd pull the top end and see what you really have, cylinder bore etc. Is the connecting rod side play within specs etc, and look for any markings to identify them? You also need to know what cam is in it to know much more. So at the very least, freshen it up with some new rings, gaskets and seals and verify everything is fitting correctly before going through all the effort to get it running.
One thing that wasn't said is that if it's much over 4.5 inch stoke, it isn't going to be an easy kick start for the less experienced. Too much advance o the ignition timing and kick back would be likely. I'd also try to identify the frame to be sure it is solid and will withstand the potential of the engine. But it could be a fun project.
Just my 2 cents.
good luck with it,
Paul
thanks
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 10,675
Likes: 7,272
From: OH
What do you need help with ?
They`re bolted on and turning which will get you to the mock up stage , long road before you worry about changing fork oil or inspecting bushings
JMO
Thread Starter
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5th Gear
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
It was like that when I got it. I think the frame is a repop, there isn't a single casting number on it anywhere.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 10,675
Likes: 7,272
From: OH
There is no question that it`s an aftermarket frame.
At some point you need to get the frame "in the air" and start trying to fit parts to see what fits and what is missing. ( I suspect a fair amount of M.I.A. bits )
Lets start with the front wheel, got a double disc wheel in that pile of stuff ?
Got an axle ? Got spacers ? Do the discs line up with the calipers ?
Got a rear wheel that accepts the rear drum brake we see laying there ? ( see frame " stay" comment in post 13 )
Got an axle ? Got spacers ?
OK, now it`s a "roller" ( sort of)
Does the tranny bolt in the frame ? Does the trans sprocket line up with rear wheel sprocket ?
No point in refurbing parts until you know what can be used
EDIT: JMO
At some point you need to get the frame "in the air" and start trying to fit parts to see what fits and what is missing. ( I suspect a fair amount of M.I.A. bits )
Lets start with the front wheel, got a double disc wheel in that pile of stuff ?
Got an axle ? Got spacers ? Do the discs line up with the calipers ?
Got a rear wheel that accepts the rear drum brake we see laying there ? ( see frame " stay" comment in post 13 )
Got an axle ? Got spacers ?
OK, now it`s a "roller" ( sort of)
Does the tranny bolt in the frame ? Does the trans sprocket line up with rear wheel sprocket ?
No point in refurbing parts until you know what can be used
EDIT: JMO
Last edited by eighteight; Dec 21, 2020 at 09:58 AM.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,104
Likes: 51,374
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
You are going to want to get rid of that front end and anything else with the name Life Line on it, anything made by them is pure cheap azz junk. Hate to be the bearer of bad news but best you hear it now before it causes you trouble and more money. Dealt with a lot of their trash over the years, never good.