I recently installed a cam and all the stuff that goes with it ..2019 107.

I have a slightly louder tick than before and have been advised my many to adjust the pushrods.

Being that this is my first time doing this..the only thing I can see as the correct way is the go through the entire process. Set TDC on each set..losen them to zero and reset them...but I want to ask. Before I do that, would it cause an issue if I just adjusted all 4 pushrods out a flat or 2 as it sits? Just to see if that helps any. Or is that a bad idea ?

Bike runs rides and idles well.

 

Do it all the time. Not a problem on my bikes. Just make sure you know the thread pitch to adjust accordingly.

 

I am thinking of doing the same thing. I just installed the S&S Quickee pushrods, including S&S tappets, but I still have the dreaded ticking, particularly from the front exhaust rocker arm. I once again re-adjusted the pushrods four turns past zero lash, but the ticking remained (rocker arm inserts did not help). I now want to go back in and extend each pushrod two flats each from where they are at. This means that I would not back off from the four turns, but would merely be extending the pushrods two flats each. I see no need to turn each cylinder to TDC and having the tappet at its lowest point.

 

I agree. I want to do the same. It makes sense to me that it would work...but I just want to confirm...let me know if you do it

 

The following video walks you thru the entire install & adjustment procedure, just note the threads per inch of your pushrods and set them as necessary.

 

SocalledChad, this afternoon, I did the front cylinder exhaust pushrod only. I extended it two additional flats. That came out to four turns plus two flats (S&S Quickee). I did it without TDC or base circle. Although the engine ran great, unfortunately, the tick was still there. I had used a stethoscope and narrowed the ticking down to the front exhaust rocker arm. Since I had previously taken the rocker covers off a couple of days ago, and removed the rocker arms, I did not find any issue with them. Although the S&S hydraulic tappets have .200" of hydraulic plunger travel, when adjusting the pushrods, the plunger would be positioned near the center of its travel, which is equal to .125" and while the pushrod could be extended a few more flats, I would be real hesitant to extend the pushrod anymore flats for fear that the piston would kiss the valve.

 

FM this is what I followed . Fm 24tpi s&s lifters . 3.5 from zero.. i found tdc via the cam sprockets . Dots aligned tip and bottom for one cylinder. Both at top for other cylinder..I belive. Would a tick be a sighn of a pushrod that is adjusted to short? Or to long? If its that at all.

 

That seems to be the million dollar question. But as far as the adjustment, I am not a fan of counting flats when doing the adjustment. I prefer to count the turns. I think counting flats too inaccurate, but it also a preferred method used by some. I prefer to first place two marks on the pushrod, so that as I make one complete turn, I can align the marks, top and bottom, and make sure that each stroke starts and begins at the same place. Just my preference.

 

I just start/stop my wrench in the same place. It's within 1/8 of a turn or better. Close enough.
Nothing wrong with making marks tho.

 

I did 3.5 turns by making a mark on the nut.