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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
OP, listen to Max, might save you some $$. If the scoring on the cam plate was minimal and the pump doesn't show damage that could be caused by excessive runout you many not need a complete tear down. You said run out was "out of spec" but didn't say what the run out was; important piece of information.
Update: The heads came off and are now headed to a machine shop for a full valve job. The cam plate and oil pump will be replaced. The pinion shaft runout was right on the line at three thousands, so the crankshaft will remain.
And all of this is thanks to the fine work done in 2018 by a Harley stealership in Texas when they installed the Screaming Eagle CNC ported heads, cam plate and oil pump.
Last edited by cgmartine; Mar 11, 2021 at 05:40 PM.
Reason: Update
Glad at least the bottom end will survive, that would have added a lot of cost.
Curious part is why the guide came lose. Is it the original guide? Or was it previously replaced?
Valve guides are press fit to .001-.0015, and the person installing the guide should know if the fit is too lose. At this point the options are simple, measure the hold and get an oversize guide that fits correctly. Now the hole has likely been damaged and will require honing to an over size, but the trick is maintaining alignment with the valve seat. A good machine shop can do that, as long as the guide hole isn't damaged beyond the max guide oversize service options. But there are still some options, but hopefully it will go smoothly and won't require that.
I too was unable to check out your noise? I recently had a ticking that I guess I was the only one who could hear it? Just had heads replaced and so far so good no ticking.. I'll look at the heads this weekend to see what I can physically see might have been the issue..
I developed a ticking last weekend on it's first time out this spring that got progressively louder in the 5 mile run to a store. Shut it down and found the issue right away. The rear exhaust adjustable pushrod jam nut installed a year ago decided to work loose. I reluctantly went to these when doing cams despite my better judgement against them.
I'll be checking them occasionally between now and the time I go back to solids. I don't care what anyone says, this common practice born out of laziness to pull the heads is an unecessary risk and I know some builders that wouldn't be caught dead using adjustables. This was enough to bring me back to my senses.
Last edited by 60Gunner; Mar 27, 2021 at 09:29 AM.
I developed a ticking last weekend on it's first time out this spring that got progressively louder in the 5 mile run to a store. Shut it down and found the issue right away. The rear exhaust adjustable pushrod jam nut installed a year ago decided to work loose. I reluctantly went to these when doing cams despite my better judgement against them.
I'll be checking them occasionally between now and the time I go back to solids. I don't care what anyone says, this common practice born out of laziness to pull the heads is an unecessary risk and I know some builders that wouldn't be caught dead using adjustables. This was enough to bring me back to my senses.
If you can't tighten them correctly, stay with the non-adjustables for sure.
I developed a ticking last weekend on it's first time out this spring that got progressively louder in the 5 mile run to a store. Shut it down and found the issue right away. The rear exhaust adjustable pushrod jam nut installed a year ago decided to work loose. I reluctantly went to these when doing cams despite my better judgement against them.
I'll be checking them occasionally between now and the time I go back to solids. I don't care what anyone says, this common practice born out of laziness to pull the heads is an unecessary risk and I know some builders that wouldn't be caught dead using adjustables. This was enough to bring me back to my senses.
Solid push rods will solve the problem but so will a wee bit of red Loctite as Smith Brothers instructs for their push rods; has worked for me for years. Two bikes with "built" motors, many miles, no loose jamb nuts. I did have one of the early SE Quick Install Tapered jamb nuts break on me but that's a story for another thread.
Solid push rods will solve the problem but so will a wee bit of red Loctite as Smith Brothers instructs for their push rods; has worked for me for years. Two bikes with "built" motors, many miles, no loose jamb nuts. I did have one of the early SE Quick Install Tapered jamb nuts break on me but that's a story for another thread.
The red loctite would solve the issue of them coming loose again most likely but not solve the issue of what I THINK caused it to come loose in the first place. I had the jam nuts pretty damn tight but they're prone to flexing and I think that's the real issue. The loctite wouldn't stop that. Just keep them from working loose because of it.
I may be wrong but...
Solids have other advantages such as weight besides not flexing too.
The adjustables just make me nervous especially given how hard I ride much of the time. This could've had much worse results.
I'll loctite them for now but I'm seriously leaning towards going to custom made solids next time the heads come off anyway. I didn't listen to that little voice in my head telling me to do it when I did .030 head gaskets last fall.
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