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Cam plate and oil pump preference

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Old Dec 1, 2021 | 10:48 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by dawg
Being an 02 with the forged crank and lefty Timken you probably have minimal runout. Consider gear drive. Can use old plate, update the relieve valve, change the inner bearings to full compliment, freshen up the top and be done.
Except..

My crank is at the Indy getting trued and welded. It had .005 runout ​​​​​​​
 
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Old Dec 1, 2021 | 10:51 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
AFAIK, one thing to note is that the Thayer pump only fits the later pump plates. Thayer did not make one for the early plates. SnS has both early and late pumps. I don't remember whether the SnS plate for early TC cams used the early or late SnS pump tho. I checked, the early SnS plate uses the late SnS pump (Or thayer, or stock fort that matter).
Agree. I was not sure what plate/pump the OP was using or planned on using. Still think outer bearings, even in the early cam plate, are preferable to running cams in the later cam plate in the parent material of the plate; JMHO.

I also agree with the comments after my last from you, Kirby and Dawg; lots of good information and hope the OP takes advantage of it in his build plan.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2021 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
Except..
Missed that part. However, if he’s getting it trued and welded it will be good to go for gears.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2021 | 05:51 AM
  #24  
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Thank you everyone, lots of good information. That’s why I posted this. To make it good for years to come. I’m using a different than stock cam plate because I definitely want to go away from the spring tensioners to the hydraulic.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2021 | 05:48 PM
  #25  
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i second dlj on every point including the Johnson Hylifts. There simply isn't a better lifter. Larger oil resevoir than any other lifter for starters.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2021 | 06:43 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by dawg
Missed that part. However, if he’s getting it trued and welded it will be good to go for gears.

welding without plugging or pinning will not stop FW`s from moving
 
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Old Dec 6, 2021 | 10:57 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by prodrag1320
welding without plugging or pinning will not stop FW`s from moving
I thought the welding stopped them from moving and going out of true again? They rotate on the pin and welding the halves to the pin would stop them from turning I thought? What does plugging and pinning mean?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2021 | 02:06 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Mglide
I thought the welding stopped them from moving and going out of true again? They rotate on the pin and welding the halves to the pin would stop them from turning I thought? What does plugging and pinning mean?
I tried to find a picture; maybe another member can post one.

Envision a hole machined at the seam between the crank pin and the flywheel with an over size pin pressed into the hole. I forget the press fit tolerances but I believe the pins are about .250" in diameter and the hole smaller by the specified press fit clearance. For me, pinning and welding is the way to go.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2021 | 04:25 PM
  #29  
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How do you pin it?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2021 | 07:20 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Mglide
How do you pin it?
we machine a hole half thru the pin & half thru the wheel & press a .250" pin in and weld over it,we did this way back in the day on the drag lower ends to try & keep them straight.plugging ir where a oversize hardened plug is pressed in the pin,increasing the interfit of the pin.this is what S&S and darkhorse does.simply welding the pin seemed like a good fix when the TC flywheels were first seen moving,but performance shops like us quickly saw it really didnt work all that great
 
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