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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
[QUOTE=kero;20874632]Have you checked the charging system?[/QUOTE
Okay I checked and cleaned it up but it was already clean from when I had done it before. Bypassed the kill switch, I already have a push button start. Started fine and i rode it to work (no more than 7 miles) no issues. Got off at 8pm (georgia so its still in the high 70s) turned over but wouldn't start (no spark) finally after about 3 minutes of trying on and off it started and ran fine for about 1 mile. Shut down, wouldn't restart and battery died. No spark. I'm ****ing lost. I have replaced intake gaskets, coil, spark plug wires, spark plugs ignition sensor (cam sensor) checked for bad wires/connections and bypassed kill switch at the bars. Any suggestions?
It seems like it must be something you've already checked. Going back to the intake manifold, not sure how you checked it but if you can get it running/idling long enough, spray some brake cleaner around the gasket edges. If you detect a change in idle speed or stumbling, it's a really good sign that you have a leak. (Sorry if you've already used this technique).
[QUOTE=Since 1968;20879057]It seems like it must be something you've already checked. Going back to the intake manifold, not sure how you checked it but if you can get it running/idling long enough, spray some brake cleaner around the gasket edges. If you detect a change in idle speed or stumbling, it's a really good sign that you have a leak. (Sorry if you've already used this technique).[/QUOT
I didn't check it that way. I just bought the gasket kit from J&P and replaced them all. If I can get it started, I definitely try it. Thanks for the suggestion
It seems like it must be something you've already checked. Going back to the intake manifold, not sure how you checked it but if you can get it running/idling long enough, spray some brake cleaner around the gasket edges. If you detect a change in idle speed or stumbling, it's a really good sign that you have a leak. (Sorry if you've already used this technique).
Could not get a spark to get it started so I just started stripping it down again (seat, saddle bags, tank, etc) to just go over everything again to see what I may have missed. I totally missed the old electronic ignition module that is on the left side of the frame at the neck. Took it off and it looks like it could be ****. I don't know how to test it but wiring seems brittle and the plastic stuff on the back have holes, they are tiny but I can see what seems to be metal through them. I went ahead and ordered the
Dynatek 2000i Ignition.
From what i understand this takes the place of the old module all together. If I'm mistaken please let me know before I put it on and waste my money. Also if anyone knows and would like to share how to teat the old module please let me know. Again thanks to everyone helping me through this journey.
You will be happy with the dynatek ignition. Set it for curve number two, dual fire (if single coil), and voes. I assume you are using a voes. The voes is in my opinion a good thing to have. It triggers two different advance curves so you get economy and it helps reduce pinging.
The ignition also makes setting the timing a breeze. Just follow the instructions and you will be good.
Last edited by Yankee Dog; Oct 18, 2022 at 04:32 PM.
You will be happy with the dynatek ignition. Set it for curve number two, dual fire (if single coil), and voes. I assume you are using a voes. The voes is in my opinion a good thing to have. It triggers two different advance curves so you get economy and it helps reduce pinging.
The ignition also makes setting the timing a breeze. Just follow the instructions and you will be good.
Thanks for the settings, I will be running a single coil and the voes. I'm definitely hoping for easy set up and timing. I have never dealt with timing on a motorcycle but I have on a car. I hope this is the part that I overlooked and this will get me back up and running. I do have a voltage regulator and stator ordered as well along with new relay and circuit breakers. 🤞.
Thanks for the settings, I will be running a single coil and the voes. I'm definitely hoping for easy set up and timing. I have never dealt with timing on a motorcycle but I have on a car. I hope this is the part that I overlooked and this will get me back up and running. I do have a voltage regulator and stator ordered as well along with new relay and circuit breakers. 🤞.
If you read the dynatek instructions, you will be good. It will be the easiest timing you have ever set. The static timing method is really accurate to within a degree or two. You will never know the difference in that one or two degrees.
The hardest part of the install will be removing the old and routing the new wires. That part is not hard. Just time consuming. Good luck with the install. Instructions below:
If you read the dynatek instructions, you will be good. It will be the easiest timing you have ever set. The static timing method is really accurate to within a degree or two. You will never know the difference in that one or two degrees.
The hardest part of the install will be removing the old and routing the new wires. That part is not hard. Just time consuming. Good luck with the install. Instructions below:
You will be happy with the dynatek ignition. Set it for curve number two, dual fire (if single coil), and voes. I assume you are using a voes. The voes is in my opinion a good thing to have. It triggers two different advance curves so you get economy and it helps reduce pinging.
The ignition also makes setting the timing a breeze. Just follow the instructions and you will be good.
Got it all hooked up and took me a while with the timing due to not having anyone helpings at first but then my wife came home and helped. I HAVE SPARK. the bike runs great (only rode it for about 20 min so far). Now the tachometer is not working. The instructions said not to hook it to the coil (where it was and is shown on the wiring diagram) but to hook it to wire only. Both wires were connected to the coil originally. Haven't decided if I'm going to go back to the original wiring set up or what since the instructions said that it could damage the module.. Also, during all this I took the time to clean out the gas tank and I believe I ****ed up the fuel level sending unit as now my gage doesn't work. I took it out again and noticed that the micro wires where the float rides are broke. Anyone know where to get a replacement for my bike? So far all I have found are used for over $100. Is there a universal on? 🤔
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