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Old Oct 15, 2022 | 09:16 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by paud
Here is where I need some input. I can insert but not tighten the push rods to make it easier for me to see the up and down of the lifters. No sure how to figure IF I am on the compression stroke.
What I missed in the video was the tech specifying that the piston should be at TDC. Maybe I missed it but that was the point of my previous post. If you have the cam chest open, you can visually see if the lifter is on the base circle. Both spark plugs out and I use a straw to set the piston at TDC. Piston at TDC and lifters on the cam base circle and adjust both from there. If the cam chest is not open, you will have to get comfortable using the lifter position or approach it like Since 1968 does to insure the lifters are on the base circle. I adjust push rods with the cam chest open after a cam install; I like to see the lifter on the cam base circle.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 09:04 AM
  #12  
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When the intake lifter stops moving down you are on compression stroke for that cylinder, not necessary to be exactly top dead center, but far enough into the compression stroke that both valves are closed
 
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 09:18 AM
  #13  
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Guess I’m an oddball when it comes to adjusting valves. I never look at TDC. When the exhaust valve just starts to open, adjust that cylinders intake. When the intake valve just closes, adjust that cylinders exhaust. I know, it takes more engine turning. It’s just the way I do it and it hasn’t failed me for 40 plus years.
There’s than one way to skin a cat!
 
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 01:58 PM
  #14  
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so, I found a nice animated video of harley engine. It helped.
I went back to the bike and rolled the engine over using the rear wheel. I watched the front two lifters. As I turned the back wheel, I looked for the exhaust lifter to come up, meaning exhaust stroke. As I continued to turn the back wheel, I watched the exhaust lifter come down and as it got almost to the bottom travel, the intake valve moved up. This mean the piston was coming down getting ready to go to the bottom of the stroke, and head back up for the compression stroke. I then moved to the otherside of the bike to feel the air rushing out of the spark plug hole-( yes, both plugs were removed) As I moved the rear wheel, I also used a big zip tie to place in the spark plug hole to determine the top height of the piston on the compression stroke. Therefore TDC, compression stroke.
Hahahah, I know that sounds like a lot, but....
 
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 07:36 PM
  #15  
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Hey......... ya gotta do what ya gotta do for things to make sense to you......... I know I do!
 
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Old Oct 19, 2022 | 06:09 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jbarr1
Guess I’m an oddball when it comes to adjusting valves. I never look at TDC. When the exhaust valve just starts to open, adjust that cylinders intake. When the intake valve just closes, adjust that cylinders exhaust. I know, it takes more engine turning. It’s just the way I do it and it hasn’t failed me for 40 plus years.
There’s than one way to skin a cat!
I am the same, and as long as the valve you are adjusting, is on the base circle of the cam, it makes no difference.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2022 | 04:04 AM
  #17  
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Allow me to close the stable door now the horse has bolted, but the timing marks you used for the cam change, that are on the cam and crankshaft sprockets, when they meet, cam mark at 6 o'clock, crank mark 12 o'clock, the rear pot is at TDC, or as damn near as it needs to be. if you then rotate the motor so that the crank timing mark is again on 12 o' clock and the cam timing mark is also on 12 o' clock, the front pot will then be at TDC.

Moral of the story, save straws for drinking and put the cam cover on last .
 
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Old Oct 20, 2022 | 05:06 PM
  #18  
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haahah, I hear ya. I think the older I get the more I double and triple check most everything.
 
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