new rods.
Hey all
Installed new cam and installing new adjustable push rods. Got two in, looks good. Put in other two and after 15 minute bleed down, I could not turn one rod by hand so decided to start over with those two rods. In doing so, do I need to do something to the tappets to get them to bleed down again?
Installed new cam and installing new adjustable push rods. Got two in, looks good. Put in other two and after 15 minute bleed down, I could not turn one rod by hand so decided to start over with those two rods. In doing so, do I need to do something to the tappets to get them to bleed down again?
What lifters and pushrods are you using? What is the procedure you are using to adjust the push rods? TDC on compression stroke? Using the correct TPI for the pushrod? Is this your first time? Some get the procedure wrong, take too many turns and bottom out the lifter travel. Provide more information.
No disrespect; but more information would help.
No disrespect; but more information would help.
stock lifters, SE pushrods with new torque cam. I was following the procedure on a video made by J&P. At the same time I was reading the instructions that came with the adjustable pushrods.It is not my first time but it has been a number of years since I did the first one.
I thought I did but....now I think I might have been off.
What I did not see in the video was getting cams on the base circle ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE. Back everything off, let the lifters reset and start over from the beginning with the pistons at TDC on the compression stroke.
Last edited by djl; Oct 15, 2022 at 11:20 AM.
Here is where I need some input. I can insert but not tighten the push rods to make it easier for me to see the up and down of the lifters. No sure how to figure IF I am on the compression stroke.
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I have found it helpful to put a zip tie on each pushrod. Makes for a solid confirmation on their movement while spinning the rear wheel. (I think the next time I do this I'll pull the timing cover and put a wrench on the crank sprocket nut, so much easier.) The other thing I've done after doubting myself on the cam position is to focus on just one pushrod. Turn the engine over and find the lowest lift point for that pushrod. Turn the engine both ways and confirm where the pushrod starts to lift. Split the difference and you are on the heel of the cam. Follow the pushrod manufacturer's procedure to set the preload and move on to the next one. Takes more time, lots more engine turning, not the way the pros do it, but I've got the time....
Yeah, I struggled a bit to absolutely confirm I had a piston on TDC. I put a narrow steel rod down the spark plug hole but the valves grabbed it. I tried a straw and it got ripped up. I tried a small bamboo shoot and it got cut off. When I started the bike later on I had a flaming bit of bamboo shoot out the exhaust and the whole garage smelt like I was burning incense....










