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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Make sure the compression releases are working. If this checks out, read the voltage at the battery, and at the starter when trying to start the motor.
Ok possibly a stupid response of the day, I don't have compression releases. This is a stock 96 with a stage 1.
I would try giving the battery a full charge first and see how it starts.
Just because it's new doesn't mean it had a full charge when you installed it.
If a battery isn't charging then it's discharging. Even if it's just sitting on a shelf.
Don't disagree with the above comments but curious about the CCA of the new battery; should be at least 400CCA. Voltage drop to 10.3 indicates, to me, a weak battery; drop to 10 and it won't start.
Big Crank from batterymart.com, buy their bike batteries all the time. Was just thinking that the slow "cranking" could be something else after the battery test.
Big Crank from batterymart.com, buy their bike batteries all the time. Was just thinking that the slow "cranking" could be something else after the battery test.
Ride safe and FJB!
If it's the ETX30L, CCA is 400. I would assume, always dangerous, that all the connections are in the same condition as they were before the new battery; as well as everything else that has been mentioned. So, it appears the problem started with the install of the new battery, so regardless of testing, the new battery could be the problem. There have been so many posts over the years from members that have starting issues and refuse to consider the battery as the problem because "it's a new battery" or "the battery load tested OK". I am still thinking weak battery.
If it's the ETX30L, CCA is 400. I would assume, always dangerous, that all the connections are in the same condition as they were before the new battery; as well as everything else that has been mentioned. So, it appears the problem started with the install of the new battery, so regardless of testing, the new battery could be the problem. There have been so many posts over the years from members that have starting issues and refuse to consider the battery as the problem because "it's a new battery" or "the battery load tested OK". I am still thinking weak battery.
Yes, all my troubleshooting I have ever done or recommended revolve around the battery for starters. This issue was also happening prior, hence why I bought a new battery. Nothing has changed wire or connection wise. I posted my battery charge, the charge when the ignition was turned on, and then the cranking volts. As stated earlier, I'm going to replace the solenoid connections with new ones, but if I still have the problem, could it be something engine wise?
Like I said in the initial post, I load tested the battery this morning and full charge is 12.9, ignition on is 12.6, and when starting drops to 10.3. It seems like the motor is struggling to complete the initial one or two revolutions upon starting. Once started she runs fine. The bike also does this even when warmed up.
Also all connections to the battery are tight and clean of any corrosion.
Ride safevand FJB!
If not done so, you might want to check the voltage at the starter while cranking.
If you are certain the battery load tests ok, check your cable connections as already mentioned. Then pull the endcap off of the starter, and clean up the contacts with a little emery cloth. Easy stuff first.
Last edited by roussfam; Dec 20, 2022 at 07:54 AM.
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