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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
I've read on here about compensators going bad.....unless you broke it it's not! It's just tired springs. Here is a tried and true fix for the current one with bellville springs... you can also apply this to the older cupped spring version.
1. Buy the spring pack from Harley...approx $100... mmmm, replacement parts from Harley...
2. Pull primary down to Comp.
3. Notice how tight your primary chain is...Harley recommends 1/2" play....bet you don't have that.
4. Remove tensioner and discard, get a manual or spring (Hayden M6) adjuster.
5. Remove comp and replace springs....SAVE THE Little on you take off!!!
6. Put little half back on so you have 3 complete sets of spring instead of 2 1/2...
7. Put it all back together.
Mission accomplished!
You now have a compensator that works!
Why this works: When the springs are weak the compensator rocks back and forth at idle (the rattle) and during start up. Some will start to crank then lock like you threw a rock in the cylinder. in short it is because the crank rocks forward and throw the timing off, it basically is trying to fire the motor backwards against the starter.. when the comp is tight it prevents this. Think of it like having the primary tensioner removed, same concept.. Remember the starter drives the clutch basket, which drives the primary chain and motor thru the comp.... A loose comp is like a loose primary chain!
3 complete sets
When the springs are weak the sprocket will slide all the way up the ramp... this is bad because it goes both ways... almost a 2" slack!
my setup... yes my tensioner is a little snug, it just needed seated in.
Currently 25k miles no rattle, no starting issues!
For the non-mechanics ---- The second picture with the ramp and sprocket, that's where the steel on your magnetic drain plug in the primary comes from.....
It was my 16 Ultra…. I believe it was 2011 when they changed all the twin cam to the SE comp…. My 08 Fatboy has the older one with the cup welded to the stator. You can add springs to it also, they are just harder to get. Vise grips work to “unbend” the notch holding the springs in. I had an old style and just stole the springs out of it..
I don't know how they ride but I doubt they do parades. The stories are here. You've seen them. Guys on their third late model SE one in less than 50,000.
Personally I don't see the attraction or need for one and don't run one. I can feel my motor pulse a little.. Mostly at idle. But I actually like it. Reminds me I'm on a cammed Harley. And I'm.not even rubber mounted.
It's a comfort thing mostly. There are no reports or evidence of it being anything else. Even with the excessive torque of built engines. So people who don't know how to.start off with a clutch don't kill the engine. Like the spring plates in the sporties.that was a very bad idea and caused lots of damage when the.rivets disintegrated.
I don't have a lot of miles on mine with the 30 tooth solid sprocket aka compensator.eliminator but plenty do. A tech at FM has over 50,000 miles on a 107 build similar to mine and he's running a stock crank. Not the S&S I am.
I like my clutch to grab right away too. Its partly why I run ATF for primary fluid. No issues with drag
Some don't like the grab of either and would rather keep replacing compensators I guess.
The other reason I run the solid sprocket is for the gearing change. But there is also a solid sprocket in a 34 tooth is a gearing change isn't wanted.
I know FM has done lots of compensator eliminators without issues.
To.each their own I guess.
Last edited by 60Gunner; Feb 22, 2023 at 05:09 AM.
When you went to the 30 tooth sprocket, how much rpm in 6th gear did it give you?
70mph in 6th gear is right around 3000rpm. A gain of about 300rpm as I recall.
I don't even think about 6th gear til at least 70mph. Usually more like 75.
Last edited by 60Gunner; Feb 22, 2023 at 06:52 PM.