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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
A spread of 5 psi isn't bad, and 160 psi is certainly enough for the motor to run. Given the impact of intake valve timing and other variables, someone who has measured compression on a 96 with your cams will have to weigh in with what's expected. Are you at or near the expected numbers for a sound motor with 551's? Maybe down 20 psi? Hopefully somebody with your cams has some insight.
As Since 1968 says, 5psi variance between cylinders is OK. However, the 551 cam has a very early intake close which pushes CCP up from stock. If the motor is a Stage II, cam upgrade only, i.e., no head work, no domed pistons, no head decking, OEM head gasket, etc. CCP should be about 185psi at sea level. Use the Big Boyz compression calculator and adust for sea level to see how 160-165 compares.
As Since 1968 says, 5psi variance between cylinders is OK. However, the 551 cam has a very early intake close which pushes CCP up from stock. If the motor is a Stage II, cam upgrade only, i.e., no head work, no domed pistons, no head decking, OEM head gasket, etc. CCP should be about 185psi at sea level. Use the Big Boyz compression calculator and adust for sea level to see how 160-165 compares.
I put very little stock in compression test readings. A compression test can be a useful diagnostic tool in certain circumstances but mostly for comparison to other cylinders or to find massive loss of compression. As an indicator of engine wear, power, or overall engine health it's a pretty useless test as there are way to many variables that are next to impossible to account for ie; during the test what was battery voltage when cranking? How much current was the starter drawing? What was the engine temperature? What was the oil temperature ? What was the ambient temperature? What was the barometric pressure? What's your elevation? How much oil was on the cylinder walls? What position were the piston rings in? Etcetera......
What exactly do you mean when you say the top end sounds a little sloppy?
I put very little stock in compression test readings. A compression test can be a useful diagnostic tool in certain circumstances but mostly for comparison to other cylinders or to find massive loss of compression. As an indicator of engine wear, power, or overall engine health it's a pretty useless test as there are way to many variables that are next to impossible to account for ie; during the test what was battery voltage when cranking? How much current was the starter drawing? What was the engine temperature? What was the oil temperature ? What was the ambient temperature? What was the barometric pressure? What's your elevation? How much oil was on the cylinder walls? What position were the piston rings in? Etcetera......
What exactly do you mean when you say the top end sounds a little sloppy?
Noisy, I know i get rocker noise around 2k rpms.
Seems noisier than usual at idle and when riding around.
A couple of other things to look into. There's a guy active on here that sells a product to address excess rocker noise. Dang, my memory.... something like Rocker Lockers? Seems pretty helpful on twin cams.
And, you might have a lifter on the way out. Your bike has cams installed so probably has adjustable lifters, meaning it wouldn't take too much work to change lifters or at least pull them and inspect them.
A couple of other things to look into. There's a guy active on here that sells a product to address excess rocker noise. Dang, my memory.... something like Rocker Lockers? Seems pretty helpful on twin cams.
And, you might have a lifter on the way out. Your bike has cams installed so probably has adjustable lifters, meaning it wouldn't take too much work to change lifters or at least pull them and inspect them.
You make excellent points! I actually have rhe rocker rockers in my tool box. I'll do the leakdown test next. Thanks!
OP has never let us know what lifers were installed and we have asssumed adjustable push rods but the OP has not confirmed that either. If adjustable push rods are installed, which ones and how deep was preload set? Were they adjusted at TDC on the compressin stroke? Let's get the basics our of the way before jumping to compression and leak down tests.
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