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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Curious if it did anything to the hardness of the tip..
I don't think so. It is definitely hard and not easy to remove material from. I also did it slow and easy, not to heat it up. It was always cool enough to touch.
It's not worth grinding the tip for .015". Your rocker arm geometry is not going to be a problem.
If the tip isn't ground square it will wipe out the rocker arm, valve or both.
It's not worth grinding the tip for .015". Your rocker arm geometry is not going to be a problem.
If the tip isn't ground square it will wipe out the rocker arm, valve or both.
Too late, its ground and I'm confident that its square. I get anxiety over small details, if I didn't think it was square and smooth, I wouldn't use it.
what was the original issue???
was this a new valve?, old valve after a seat repair??
if this was a recession issue, the repair although worked, did not solve the base issue.
the valve material is pretty much hard all they way through, UNLESS, it is a sodium filled valve which if done will destroy your engine when it breaks like glass.
yep, saw dust in the ole rear end will quite her down, at least till the bearings fail.
keep money in your pocket and the cell charged just in case you are on the highway.
what was the original issue???
was this a new valve?, old valve after a seat repair??
if this was a recession issue, the repair although worked, did not solve the base issue.
the valve material is pretty much hard all they way through, UNLESS, it is a sodium filled valve which if done will destroy your engine when it breaks like glass.
yep, saw dust in the ole rear end will quite her down, at least till the bearings fail.
keep money in your pocket and the cell charged just in case you are on the highway.
After having the valves and valve seats ground, the stem protrusion was out of spec. It should all be good now.
hummm????
a band-aide fix
sure you can get by just like running a piston in a .008 taper hole, but, issues follow. depending upon the head setup, you could induce valve shrouding and flow issues.
your dollar but for me, new seats would be the ticket.
i will tell johnny to warm up the western flyer and oil the pedals.
I used to grind valves when I worked in a machine shop. Part of the process was grinding the tip of the stem to make it flat again. It can be done but not with the valve in the head.
I'm not familiar enough with these engines to say what will or won't work. .015" isn't much but specs are there for a reason.
I've done some shady **** with a buffing disc on die grinder on large diesel engines. Harley engines seem too delicate for that kind of thing.
It can be done but not with the valve in the head ... Someone out there right now is thinking "Why not?"
After having the valves and valve seats ground, the stem protrusion was out of spec. It should all be good now.
Hold on... if a valve job was done RIGHT, the installed stem height should have been accounted for and set. Sounds to me like the valve seat was ground too far, which will let the valve head sit too far into the head, which means the valve stem is now too tall. I'd go back to the machinist and ask if he thought of that...
Hold on... if a valve job was done RIGHT, the installed stem height should have been accounted for and set. Sounds to me like the valve seat was ground too far, which will let the valve head sit too far into the head, which means the valve stem is now too tall. I'd go back to the machinist and ask if he thought of that...
I can't imagine any reputable machinist that wouldn't. Reputable being the key word.
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