I picked up a low-mileage 2017 Street Glide Special. I've had several Street Glides 21 Special (114) and a 23 Street Glide ST (117), and I have to say I like the short stroke 107 with slip-ons and a high-flow air filter. It punches above its weight, according to my older butt dyno. Both my previous bikes had cams, headers, and dyno tunes (full boat), and I miss that nasty lope at idle and the extra punch of a torque cam. So, I decided to go for a cam with common sense/must-have upgrades and do the work myself.

So, I thought I would run my plan by the community to seek input from those with more experience than I do on doing a "budget" build. I did not want to invest the $4K > $5K that a full-blown cam, Header w/slip-ons, high-end oil pump and plate, and dyno tune would cost me.

The bike already had 4.5" RCX slip-on mufflers and a Screaming Eagle snorkel air cleaner, so I plan on keeping those in the build. I ordered the wood-performance-wm8-22xe-chain-drive-camshaft-with-pushrods-lifters-kit with the Cam, Pushrods, Lifters, Cam Bearing, and Gasket Kit. I added the Cam Bearing tool to R&R the inner bearing. I also ordered HD's latest 8 Lobe oil pump w/gasket from my local dealer. I plan on keeping the factory Cam Plate, Cam Tensioner, Anti Rotation blocks, and Push Rod Tubes. I see no reason to invest in a high-dollar oil pump/plate for this level of build. Plus, I do not abuse my bikes and will not be doing anything other than brisk backroad riding.

I added the Dynojet PV3 with a tune from Fuel Moto. They said providing a tune for the stock headers as configured would be no problem. So, taking this route keeps the cost down to around $1700, including my ordering a bolt cutter from Amazon. I already own the rest of the tools, so there is no additional cost there. I have a leftover RedLine 3-hole oil change kit from my previous HDs in the garage.

What I am looking for input on is what I am missing. Are there any no-brainer additions I should consider while I have the cam chest open? My research shows that the cam chain tensioner and lifter anti-rotation blocks rarely, if ever, fail. Again, I aim to get the lope in the idle and get a decent power bump. I don't care that not doing a full dyno tune may cost me 5% > 8% HP/Torque. I doubt my 62-year-old butt dyno would know. But I would like to increase my reliability by a reasonable amount with higher quality parts over stock in a few areas while getting there.

At any rate, any feedback from more experienced mechanics would be appreciated.

Scott

 

For the minimal cost, I would consider the S&S cam chain tensioner and a feuling crank sprocket.

 

I would just add the crank sprocket. The dyno tune isn't just about the hp numbers. Here's a before and after with different exhaust, and why you want the sprocket.

 

Good advise based on what is below I ordered both. Appreciate it

 

I'm a little confused...I see 3 back to back pulls within a minutes time frame that look to be 4th, 5th and 6th pulls and not so much a comparison of before and after from a sprocket or exhaust change...or am I missing it?

 

Yes, 4th, 5th and 6th gear pulls hitting the speed limiter. Run 11 is after cam, pipe and tune.

 

make sure you have the upgraded oil pump also