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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
I have an 07 FLSTC with a 96” I just recently did a lot of motor work including head/valve work. I had my heads ported, polished and rebuilt.
I finally cranked the bike back up and noticed ONLY when I turn the bike off I hear 2 distinct clicks. I did a couple start/stop cycles and narrowed the noice down to the rear rocker box. I took the cover off and manually rotated the motor over while using a stethoscope I found the sound prominently coming from the rear cylinder exhaust valve.
Has anyone dealt with this that could offer some suggestions?
I wonder if it could be the easy start cams your hearing.
I put a stethoscope all of the motor and that rear cylinder exhaust valve is definitely where it’s coming from. I’m gonna pull the head later today and inspect further.
If a valve made that kind of snapping sound just by turning the motor over by hand I'm sure it would be broken in no time if you just ran it for a few minutes....
Sounds can resonate from the cam chest like you wouldn't believe.. I'll bet bottom dollar is those easy start cams..
Do you know what your spring pressures are, valve on the seat and valve fully open..
You want to take the head off go ahead I don't think you're going to find anything there but make sure you totally disassemble the valves and the Rocker assemblies.. everything.. might want to check the rocker plates for a crack or something..
If a valve made that kind of snapping sound just by turning the motor over by hand I'm sure it would be broken in no time if you just ran it for a few minutes....
Sounds can resonate from the cam chest like you wouldn't believe.. I'll bet bottom dollar is those easy start cams..
Do you know what your spring pressures are, valve on the seat and valve fully open..
You want to take the head off go ahead I don't think you're going to find anything there but make sure you totally disassemble the valves and the Rocker assemblies.. everything.. might want to check the rocker plates for a crack or something..
I took the heads off this afternoon and saw this on both intake valve dish cutouts on this piston. BUT when I compared then cutout to the picture of the piston when I installed it I don’t see any significant difference. PLUS if this is valve to piston contact I would see it in the bottom of dish unless the valves are larger than the dish recess itself as the angle would never change.
my plan to rule this out is to apply a paint marker to this part of the piston and mock up the cylinder, rotate it and pull it back a part. Just trying to rule things out as I go.
The vendor I used suggested it could be valve to valve contact but there is no marring on the valves so I don’t believe this was the case.
Use modeling clay to check for valve to piston clearances. You'll be able to measure a cross section of the clay after turning the engine over for actual clearance. You can't do that if you use a paint marker.
Surprised that your head porter/vendor suggested something like valve to valve.. That is all on him..A reputable shop would check that and make sure you had plenty of clearance based on your cam selection..
As @Tommy C said you'll have to clay the valve to piston.. Your looking for a minimum of .060". You might have to also make sure that the radius of the valve is smaller than the valve relief in the piston..
Who's pistons are those? Make and model.. You can look them up to make sure the valve radius cut out is large enough for your 1.90" valves.. it'll say in the description..
You said you ran the motor for a couple of Heat cycles.. I hope you didn't bend s valve..
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